brutaledge_
New member
Awesome job! Good idea to run the anti seize up and down the threads due to salted roads. That'll hopefully save you later down the road, pun not intended.
6
What did you do to your MK6 2.5 today?
- Thread starter MLue1
- Start date
Thanks Everyone for the well wishes, the Family is going through alot and taking it a day at a time.
This Forum helps alot as a welcome distraction, I'm Home so I'll resume some of my projects ... and try to help you guys out.
Great job and really nice parts.... ya too bad they are hidden under the car.
If you really want to preserve the threads on any coilovers,... Antiseize is not going to last even 1 month under the car during the winter, it washes off and provides not anti corrosion protection.
Years ago on my Time Attack car I faced the same issue of making sure I could adjust the suspension when required for different setups, the best bet is to use Yamaha Marine Grease before the winter, you can buy at Boat Supply stores, it is extremely sticky and goes NOT easily wash off (you can use it on your swaybay or other poly bushings as well). Yes, it will get coated with crud and look like shit over the winter but what you want is to ensure that the threads and adjusting rings are coated throughly with the grease to form a barrier that sheds the salty water. In the spring you will need to degrease and wash all the crud/grease off but you'll be able to adjust to your hearts content. Not the easiest way but it works great, overtime the salt will corrode because it does what it does but by then its time to replace parts.
Good luck
PS. The method that the manufacturers give you for adjusting the coilovers by measuring from fender to ground is for Cafe Racers, and people who care about "stance" and looks. If you're competing with your new coiler suspension, yes you can start by measuring like that to get a base but you need to use scales under each wheel, turn the adjustment rings to adjust the weight on the scales to properly corner balance the car's suspension (all done with you or sand bags sitting in the drivers seat).
You prolly don't intent to go that serious but just in case... take whatever you want from this.
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Dartregor
Ready to race!
Great information. Thanks. Just started working back on the front end here about an 3 hours ago. Got the old break lines off. Oem coilovers out which was really easy with lots of time for penetrating oil to do its thing. New coilovers are going in as we speak but had to modify my new coilovers to work. [emoji23] probs cause i was a cheapass and got cheap coilovers. But easy fix. Pinch bolt hole was far too small. So i made it bigger.
Forgive my not perfectly round hole. It wont matter tho.
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You don't have to use the hole but most peeple do, you could cut the ear off as others have done. With the Koni struts using the hole prevents the strut from bottoming in the spindle and result in probable a 1/4 inch increase in height, but with your coilover struts you can "adjust it down".
Dartregor
Ready to race!
Yeah i figured as much. But heres a shot of the front done. Tomorrow in the light ill take pics with the wheels on. This has been a hell of an adventure. Especially dealing with me not being able to get the axle bolts out and having to work around that constantly being there. Luckily my new ball joints, the spindle didnt want to spin so i was able to get it tight without the alen key in the top. The axle would have prevented me from using that.
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Great job!
I returned from South Carolina with a couple of issues. The exhaust leak, prolly a weld broke, hot exhaust pipe splashed with cold water can do that. I'll take it over to my Buddy's shop next week and put it on the lift to see what's up. In the meantime, I use Otey Fix it Stick epoxy putty to secure a loose heat shield above the suitcase muffler, using a wood to hold up the heat shield, I was done in 10 minutes as soon as the epoxy putty started to harden.
After last weeks run at the Roeblin Road Track in the rain, the brakes developed some vibration and bounce from a build up of residue/deposits on the front rotors; cause by the Poterfield R4 brake pads not getting hot enough running on the wet track to burn off the deposits. I've had problems like this before with other brake pads. I removed the caliper bracket and cleaned up the front rotors using Ace brand "Garnet" sand paper and a small block of wood. Well spent $4 per pack, Garnet sand paper is for bare wood applications, so it wears out fast but does a fantastic job cleaning off the brake pad deposits because it does NOT contain aluminum oxide like other sand papers. I know other guys get deposits on their brake rotors and can't seem to get rid of the vibration and bounce in the brake pedal, this is the hot tip.
Cheers
I returned from South Carolina with a couple of issues. The exhaust leak, prolly a weld broke, hot exhaust pipe splashed with cold water can do that. I'll take it over to my Buddy's shop next week and put it on the lift to see what's up. In the meantime, I use Otey Fix it Stick epoxy putty to secure a loose heat shield above the suitcase muffler, using a wood to hold up the heat shield, I was done in 10 minutes as soon as the epoxy putty started to harden.
After last weeks run at the Roeblin Road Track in the rain, the brakes developed some vibration and bounce from a build up of residue/deposits on the front rotors; cause by the Poterfield R4 brake pads not getting hot enough running on the wet track to burn off the deposits. I've had problems like this before with other brake pads. I removed the caliper bracket and cleaned up the front rotors using Ace brand "Garnet" sand paper and a small block of wood. Well spent $4 per pack, Garnet sand paper is for bare wood applications, so it wears out fast but does a fantastic job cleaning off the brake pad deposits because it does NOT contain aluminum oxide like other sand papers. I know other guys get deposits on their brake rotors and can't seem to get rid of the vibration and bounce in the brake pedal, this is the hot tip.
Cheers
KanyesChest
Ready to race!
Left my sunroof open during a flash storm the other day.. Leather seats have dried a bit funny and have left the leather in some portions all dried out and hard. Doing whatever I can this weekend to condition and soften up that leather again to avoid cracking 
Dartregor
Ready to race!
Well everything is basically done for my mid week build. Ran into a small issue with my rear right caliper. Figured out my handbrake issue was due to the caliper hand brake lever not returning under spring pressure. And then i went and accidentally broke off the bleed valve so im currently waiting on a ride so i can go pick up a new one. Ps the golfs with the banjo bolt rear brakes. The bleeder valve is in the worst possible place to stick it. Its almost quite literally surrounded by stuff ie the brake line the control arm the caliper and whatnot. The articulation on the wrench is like 20° movement. Once i get my caliper situation sorted im off to get an alignment and will post pics then. Hoping for a look slightly lower than a stock gti.
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brutaledge_
New member
Interesting problem and solution. I'll make note of that for when I get around to replacing my pads and rotors soon. My cars been through two minor floods in Texas and its damaged the rotors pretty bad so there's lots of marring and pitting. I need to figure out which rotors I have since it seems like there's a mid year difference on '12 models. Can anyone confirm the rotor size? 288x25 is what I think I need.
Brutal, man.. Good luck on getting that fixed. Was it fully open or just lifted? Might wanna hang some Damprid in the car to sop up any lingering moisture.
I replaced my ghetto clutch stop today with the ECS one and its a nice minor upgrade. Only have maybe an inch and a half of disengagement now and it feels much better.
KanyesChest
Ready to race!
Half open unfortunately.. 30 degree day with semi-clear skies. Was focused on work and didn't realize it was raining hard until about an hour into the storm. Gave it a nice wipe when I ran out and closed the sunroof, but the moisture that soaked into the seat dried out the leather when it evaporated the next day
Got some heavy duty leather conditioner that I'll be rubbing in over the weekend, and hopefully it'll bring some life back into the seats!
... if the the rotor are physically damaged then they are done but alot of people replace their rotors, even newish one that they think are warped but in fact it is most likely a deposit build up problem. If you remove and look at the rotor surface at the proper angle you can see the deposits on the surface.
EDIT: If you have brake pad deposits, once you clean up with the Garnet sand paper, the results are like magic.
Another issue that damage the Rotors as well, is when people are cheap and run worn/damaged wheel bearings, the resulting "run out" causes the rotors to wear unevenly at the edges and eventually the surface starts to rust near the edges.
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You can buy leather care stuff at Canadian Tire but if you dry out the leather too fast it will get hard and crusty, an old fashion natural way to restore the leather is to use saddle soap like you use on baseball gloves.Half open unfortunately.. 30 degree day with semi-clear skies. Was focused on work and didn't realize it was raining hard until about an hour into the storm. Gave it a nice wipe when I ran out and closed the sunroof, but the moisture that soaked into the seat dried out the leather when it evaporated the next day
Got some heavy duty leather conditioner that I'll be rubbing in over the weekend, and hopefully it'll bring some life back into the seats!
KanyesChest
Ready to race!
I've got some Leather Honey conditioner that I've heard is top notch, but if that fails, I've also heard good things about saddle soap and mink oil from my Albertan coworker
brutaledge_
New member
Performed the hatch strut swap to try to get the automatic hatch pop but it only works half the time. Seems to only work when its cold in the mornings. I will tinker with it some more today to see if there's anything out of place and if I can get more consistent openings.
I also bought the blue driver OBD2 module for scanning and SMOG check. It seems like my car will 'pass' but my catalytic tests are listed as NA due to my UM tune. I also had 1 code listed as P095B for 'Gear Shift Position Circuit "C" Range/Performance'. I researched a bit and cannot find a reason as to what this fault is for. No idea...
I also bought the blue driver OBD2 module for scanning and SMOG check. It seems like my car will 'pass' but my catalytic tests are listed as NA due to my UM tune. I also had 1 code listed as P095B for 'Gear Shift Position Circuit "C" Range/Performance'. I researched a bit and cannot find a reason as to what this fault is for. No idea...