brutaledge_
New member
Awesome job! Good idea to run the anti seize up and down the threads due to salted roads. That'll hopefully save you later down the road, pun not intended.
Sorry to hear you had a family emergency. Hopefully everything turned out OK.
Sorry to hear about that MLue. Hope everything is ok.
I wish you and your family the best and I hope everything is OK.
Sending positive thoughts your way Mark.
...And as a precaution i applied nickel antisieze to the spring seat threads and ran them all the way up and all the way back off before installing. Damn salted roads.
Tomorrows list in finish installing all the parts. Flush out the brake fluid which almost all of it is empty now except the front right brake line. Fix the height, and go get a proper alignment if i can find a shop that does rear end too....
Great job and really nice parts.... ya too bad they are hidden under the car.
If you really want to preserve the threads on any coilovers,... Antiseize is not going to last even 1 month under the car during the winter, it washes off and provides not anti corrosion protection.
Years ago on my Time Attack car I faced the same issue of making sure I could adjust the suspension when required for different setups, the best bet is to use Yamaha Marine Grease before the winter, you can buy at Boat Supply stores, it is extremely sticky and goes NOT easily wash off (you can use it on your swaybay or other poly bushings as well). Yes, it will get coated with crud and look like shit over the winter but what you want is to ensure that the threads and adjusting rings are coated throughly with the grease to form a barrier that sheds the salty water. In the spring you will need to degrease and wash all the crud/grease off but you'll be able to adjust to your hearts content. Not the easiest way but it works great, overtime the salt will corrode because it does what it does but by then its time to replace parts.
Good luck
PS. The method that the manufacturers give you for adjusting the coilovers by measuring from fender to ground is for Cafe Racers, and people who care about "stance" and looks. If you're competing with your new coiler suspension, yes you can start by measuring like that to get a base but you need to use scales under each wheel, turn the adjustment rings to adjust the weight on the scales to properly corner balance the car's suspension (all done with you or sand bags sitting in the drivers seat).
You prolly don't intent to go that serious but just in case... take whatever you want from this.
You don't have to use the hole but most peeple do, you could cut the ear off as others have done. With the Koni struts using the hole prevents the strut from bottoming in the spindle and result in probable a 1/4 inch increase in height, but with your coilover struts you can "adjust it down".
Great job!
I returned from South Carolina with a couple of issues. The exhaust leak, prolly a weld broke, hot exhaust pipe splashed with cold water can do that. I'll take it over to my Buddy's shop next week and put it on the lift to see what's up. In the meantime, I use Otey Fix it Stick epoxy putty to secure a loose heat shield above the suitcase muffler, using a wood to hold up the heat shield, I was done in 10 minutes as soon as the epoxy putty started to harden.
After last weeks run at the Roeblin Road Track in the rain, the brakes developed some vibration and bounce from a build up of residue/deposits on the front rotors; cause by the Poterfield R4 brake pads not getting hot enough running on the wet track to burn off the deposits. I've had problems like this before with other brake pads. I removed the caliper bracket and cleaned up the front rotors using Ace brand "Garnet" sand paper and a small block of wood. Well spent $4 per pack, Garnet sand paper is for bare wood applications, so it wears out fast but does a fantastic job cleaning off the brake pad deposits because it does NOT contain aluminum oxide like other sand papers. I know other guys get deposits on their brake rotors and can't seem to get rid of the vibration and bounce in the brake pedal, this is the hot tip.
Cheers
Left my sunroof open during a flash storm the other day.. Leather seats have dried a bit funny and have left the leather in some portions all dried out and hard. Doing whatever I can this weekend to condition and soften up that leather again to avoid cracking
Brutal, man.. Good luck on getting that fixed. Was it fully open or just lifted? Might wanna hang some Damprid in the car to sop up any lingering moisture.
... if the the rotor are physically damaged then they are done but alot of people replace their rotors, even newish one that they think are warped but in fact it is most likely a deposit build up problem. If you remove and look at the rotor surface at the proper angle you can see the deposits on the surface.Interesting problem and solution. I'll make note of that for when I get around to replacing my pads and rotors soon. My cars been through two minor floods in Texas and its damaged the rotors pretty bad so there's lots of marring and pitting. I need to figure out which rotors I have since it seems like there's a mid year difference on '12 models. Can anyone confirm the rotor size? 288x25 is what I think I need...
You can buy leather care stuff at Canadian Tire but if you dry out the leather too fast it will get hard and crusty, an old fashion natural way to restore the leather is to use saddle soap like you use on baseball gloves.Half open unfortunately.. 30 degree day with semi-clear skies. Was focused on work and didn't realize it was raining hard until about an hour into the storm. Gave it a nice wipe when I ran out and closed the sunroof, but the moisture that soaked into the seat dried out the leather when it evaporated the next day
Got some heavy duty leather conditioner that I'll be rubbing in over the weekend, and hopefully it'll bring some life back into the seats!
You can buy leather care stuff at Canadian Tire but if you dry out the leather too fast it will get hard and crusty, an old fashion natural way to restore the leather is to use saddle soap like you use on baseball gloves.