What did you do to your MK6 today?

[GolNat]

Got the two pistons reversed to be facing the correct way now and got the other two in as well. Also put in the studs for my ARP headstud kit. Hopefully getting the head on tomorrow and then the oil pan early next week. I also sent a message to YCW about getting my suspension rebuilt but I found out they dont have facilities in the US for it so depending on shipping it may be cheaper to just buy new. I asked in a racing group on FB and got some recommendations of brands i've never heard of like Ceika and Pedders. Anyone heard of these and have any feedback? Looking for a track oriented set, don't care about comfort or how low they go. Once I get those in and the engine it's off to get the manifold made.

For track Ohlins or KW’s. I have heard of those other 2 brands but have no experience with them.

 

[GIACUser]

Got the two pistons reversed to be facing the correct way now and got the other two in as well. Also put in the studs for my ARP headstud kit. Hopefully getting the head on tomorrow and then the oil pan early next week. I also sent a message to YCW about getting my suspension rebuilt but I found out they dont have facilities in the US for it so depending on shipping it may be cheaper to just buy new. I asked in a racing group on FB and got some recommendations of brands i've never heard of like Ceika and Pedders. Anyone heard of these and have any feedback? Looking for a track oriented set, don't care about comfort or how low they go. Once I get those in and the engine it's off to get the manifold made.

Just FYI, I have YCW coilovers and I had them re-valved to my specs a few months ago. The place YCW uses for stateside work is in Walnut California, about a 40min drive from my house. Jonathan is cool, he also builds custom coilover systems. Really happy with the outcome.
Contact

Jonathan Lugod
shaftworksusa@gmail.com

https://shaftworksusa.com

 

[smanierre]

Just FYI, I have YCW coilovers and I had them re-valved to my specs a few months ago. The place YCW uses for stateside work is in Walnut California, about a 40min drive from my house. Jonathan is cool, he also builds custom coilover systems. Really happy with the outcome.
Contact

Jonathan Lugod
shaftworksusa@gmail.com

https://shaftworksusa.com

Oh shit thats nice to know. If the ohlins in the classifieds are available i'll probably scoop those, because ohlins, and then get these rebuilt and sell them to recoup some of the cost

 

[Knotical]

Changed the oil and checked the timing chain stretch, 116K and 3.46 degrees, so I'll probably do the chain next year. Decided to check the chain tensioner as well, since I saw another 2013 with an early tensioner. Thankfully I've got the revised unit

Intercooler took a little whack a few weeks ago, and now it's all crooked. Probably time to redo the mounts, maybe get it tucked up a little higher

 

[GolNat]

Changed the oil and checked the timing chain stretch, 116K and 3.46 degrees, so I'll probably do the chain next year. Decided to check the chain tensioner as well, since I saw another 2013 with an early tensioner. Thankfully I've got the revised unit

Intercooler took a little whack a few weeks ago, and now it's all crooked. Probably time to redo the mounts, maybe get it tucked up a little higher

View attachment 249077

Using the fancy Redline!! I use the red jug 5W40.

 

[uglybastard]

Changed the oil and checked the timing chain stretch, 116K and 3.46 degrees, so I'll probably do the chain next year. Decided to check the chain tensioner as well, since I saw another 2013 with an early tensioner. Thankfully I've got the revised unit

Intercooler took a little whack a few weeks ago, and now it's all crooked. Probably time to redo the mounts, maybe get it tucked up a little higher

View attachment 249077

you should be able to limp into next year, yeah. keep the oil level topped up and check the stretch every so often and youll be golden.

 

[smanierre]

⚠Important Alert⚠ It appears my head game is strong af. That's right folks, the head is on. Everything went super smooth with it besides needing to run out to get a socket to tighten the nuts from the ARP kit. The shop cleaned up the head nice and I replaced the oil check valve as apparently they can fail, and it's cheap. I need to figure out what sealant to use for the valve cover but once I get that the cams will go in and the cover will go on. Going to do this first before the oil pan because 1. If I flip the engine now the lifters/rockers will fall out and i'm too lazy to take them out and organize them and 2. I have to scrape all the gasket out of the upper oil pan section which is gonna take a little time (pictures below). Once the valve cover is on though i'll flip it, get the oil pans (upper and lower) on, then time it up and seal up the lower timing cover. Will be all ready for the manifold at that point. Also my neighbor said his son has an engine crane so hopefully I can use that to join the engine and trans first, then put it in the car as once piece which will be much easier. Picture time

This small gasket is a pain in the ass to remove. Took me like 10 minutes to get an inch of it out.

ARP Head studs cranked down

Getting so, so close

More head please

New oil check valve, make sure to remember to lube the o-ring, i prefer spitting on it and calling it dirty words

Machine shop cleaned her up nice

 

[uglybastard]

⚠Important Alert⚠ It appears my head game is strong af.

Weird flex but ok

 

[smanierre]

Weird flex but ok

Just like my rods once I jb weld my wastegate shut

 

[Knotical]

Using the fancy Redline!! I use the red jug 5W40.

It's great stuff, can't beat it for HTHS and moly, and I'd like all the protection I can get for stage 2

 

[GolNat]

It's great stuff, can't beat it for HTHS and moly, and I'd like all the protection I can get for stage 2

Yeah it is!! I had a used oil analysis done and it’s got some good stuff in it. I have been using it from stock all the way to K04.

 

[Cole2999]

@smanierre hey are there other things that would be a good idea to replace, like the oil check valve? It's looking like I will be rebuilding rather than replacing, and I'd love to strip the block and have it honed and bored to 83, and inspect the crankshaft for damage.

If my crank is fucked the only place I've found selling new ones is ECS for 1k what would be my next best bet?

 

[Joe_Mama]

I wouldn't bother boring out the cylinders.

You should get a core charge back for your old crankshaft so it would probably be a few hundred less than that. I dunno where you can save money on a new crankshaft though...

Wish.com?

 

[smanierre]

@smanierre hey are there other things that would be a good idea to replace, like the oil check valve? It's looking like I will be rebuilding rather than replacing, and I'd love to strip the block and have it honed and bored to 83, and inspect the crankshaft for damage.

If my crank is fucked the only place I've found selling new ones is ECS for 1k what would be my next best bet?

I replaced all the bearings, all the crank bolts, you'll probably be getting new rods and Pistons so just use all that hardware. I did the oil check valve and head gasket along with the head bolts, if you aren't doing a stud kit. Could see if anyone is parting out a car and try and get a crank cheap from them then have the machine shop inspect it before using it. The manuals tell you what parts need to be replaced also so looking through there is a good idea

 

[Chisel_86]

Got my APR coils on! Of course I have broken coil connectors, but I was able to re-pin a new one. I’ll get the rest fixed later. Plug gap was good on two of them, but the other two were .038 and .042… got them all at .032 now.
Did a full Liquimoly oil change with MoS2 as well.