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When replacing the PCV...

Z

zthang

Passed Driver's Ed
My car is Cobb Stage 1+ with 85k miles. I was getting the P2187 code constantly (Bank 1 too lean at idle) along with whistling/wheezing at startup. Did a little research and read it could be the PCV/carbon buildup etc. I decided to replace the PCV and was going to just get the OEM replacement part but learned CTS Turbo was having a cyber monday sale. Billet aluminum africa plate, catch can, braided hoses with AN fittings all on sale for $380. Got that, install was a breeze and now check engine light and codes are gone and I have some peace of mind that carbon buildup will at least be reduced. Great quality product if anyone was interested.




 
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justsomeguy

justsomeguy

Passed Driver's Ed
Mk6 Steve said:
What he said! I’ve bought virtually every pcv revision and they all blew within a year. It lasted even less after going k04. Now I run a catch can through the winter....hoses and can are “winterized”.
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Please explain or share picture on how you "winterize". I normally take my 034 catch can off in December, put the stock pcv back on, and then do the reverse in April. Thanks!
 
Z

zthang

Passed Driver's Ed
Dunno what 'winterizing' a catch can means lol...but luckily I live in Houston, Tx and it never gets below water freezing temps even
 
torga

torga

Autocross Champion
brobst said:
Apr cc hoses thick enough for Michigan. No way my cc freezes unless I park it for like a month

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
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How do you like the APR can? I'm deciding between the APR kit and ECS kit. I'm leaning ECS purely because their can has a dipstick.
 
M

Mk6 Steve

Ready to race!
I bought 3/4" self sealing pipe insulation and extreme weather foil tape all at home depot (links below). Cut a length of insulation to wrap your hose(s) in, seal it, and wrap it with foil tape. So far so good :thumbsup: I have plans to wrap the can as well because I notice it's ICE cold after driving on the highway for 45 minutes.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-...reme-Weather-HVAC-Foil-Tape-1207801/100507541

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacel...-Seal-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation-HST07812/100585113
 
justsomeguy

justsomeguy

Passed Driver's Ed
“Doesn't that pretty much defeat the entire purpose?”

I don’t drive the car everyday nor do I have a heated garage. Four months of some blow-by beats risking blowing out my RMS for me.

“I bought 3/4" self sealing pipe insulation and extreme weather foil tape all at home depot (links below). Cut a length of insulation to wrap your hose(s) in, seal it, and wrap it with foil tape. So far so good I have plans to wrap the can as well because I notice it's ICE cold after driving on the highway for 45 minutes.”

“Typically "winterizing" catch cans includes adding methanol or gasoline to the can after emptying it so the blow-by doesn't freeze.”

Thank you for the tips Guy’s, much appreciated!
 
jay745

jay745

What Would Glenn Danzig Do
justsomeguy said:
“Doesn't that pretty much defeat the entire purpose?”

I don’t drive the car everyday nor do I have a heated garage. Four months of some blow-by beats risking blowing out my RMS for me.

“I bought 3/4" self sealing pipe insulation and extreme weather foil tape all at home depot (links below). Cut a length of insulation to wrap your hose(s) in, seal it, and wrap it with foil tape. So far so good I have plans to wrap the can as well because I notice it's ICE cold after driving on the highway for 45 minutes.”

“Typically "winterizing" catch cans includes adding methanol or gasoline to the can after emptying it so the blow-by doesn't freeze.”

Thank you for the tips Guy’s, much appreciated!
Click to expand...
You could just empty it daily. Winter is when your car needs the catch can most.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
B

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
I think hes talking about the lines freezing during winter and then basically causing you to pressurize the crank case which can destroy you RMS too
 
M

Mk6 Steve

Ready to race!
BudgetPhoenix said:
I think hes talking about the lines freezing during winter and then basically causing you to pressurize the crank case which can destroy you RMS too
Click to expand...

You are correct
 
aj_law

aj_law

Go Kart Champion
Update to OP:

Ended up ordering OEM part from Amazon. Arrived the next day and I immediately became suspicious of the part’s validity because…well, that’s what I do. To me, it looked like somebody took the original version of the part and tried to manually alter the part number to make it look like it’s the latest revision number. So, I took a trip to my local dealer to source one from them. Was able to get them to price match it to how much ECS was selling it for online…$160ish versus their price of $210. The first picture below is the Amazon “OEM latest part revision.” The second is the two PCVs set next to each other so you can see the difference in how the part numbers look.

As you might be able to tell, the part from the dealer has the part number embossed the same way, but it’s much more precise and appears to be “machined” compared to the other which looks like somebody tried to get cute with a soldering iron.

I dunno. Maybe it’s just me being paranoid, but for a $50 savings over the cost of the Amazon part, I went the safe route. Am I crazy to think it’s been altered?

Just a heads up for anyone that is considering buying it from Amazon.

Also, after the replacement, car is back to normal again so I guess it was the source of the problem. Fingers crossed for now.

EDIT: Also, didn't replace either of the hoses. They looked OK during installation.

Image #1 - Amazon



Image #2 - Dealer part on bottom of screen, Amazon part on top of screen

 
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