bart2278
Go Kart Champion
I have seen guys using 70/30 and 80/20 in here. I don't think I have seen pure meth being used though.
6
master water/meth discussion thread
- Thread starter dubbinit2
- Start date
I have seen guys using 70/30 and 80/20 in here. I don't think I have seen pure meth being used though.
riceburner
Autocross Champion
well i'm joining the club now guys 
I've been collecting a few parts so far:
BSH throttle pipe
SNOW upgraded solenoid (for just past the tank I believe)
BSH Pump bracket
SNOW pump, 300psi
MAF-U controller
Still need:
Tank, low level sensor, low level alert
Line
Nozzles (anyone have recommended starting points for a dual nozzle on a K04 setup?
Throttle spacer plate
2 more solenoids, one prior to each nozzle
I am in the midst of planning a cell phone gauge pod. I will have a cell phone mounted somewhere at all times communicating through one of the car diag apps via a bluetooth obd2 pigtail. I think as far as tuning goes i need to watch AFR and dial it in, then get my 100 octane tune and re-dial it in?
I've been collecting a few parts so far:
BSH throttle pipe
SNOW upgraded solenoid (for just past the tank I believe)
BSH Pump bracket
SNOW pump, 300psi
MAF-U controller
Still need:
Tank, low level sensor, low level alert
Line
Nozzles (anyone have recommended starting points for a dual nozzle on a K04 setup?
Throttle spacer plate
2 more solenoids, one prior to each nozzle
I am in the midst of planning a cell phone gauge pod. I will have a cell phone mounted somewhere at all times communicating through one of the car diag apps via a bluetooth obd2 pigtail. I think as far as tuning goes i need to watch AFR and dial it in, then get my 100 octane tune and re-dial it in?
GoodTimesIndeed
Go Kart Champion
well i'm joining the club now guys
I've been collecting a few parts so far:
BSH throttle pipe
SNOW upgraded solenoid (for just past the tank I believe)
BSH Pump bracket
SNOW pump, 300psi
MAF-U controller
Still need:
Tank, low level sensor, low level alert
Line
Nozzles (anyone have recommended starting points for a dual nozzle on a K04 setup?
Throttle spacer plate
2 more solenoids, one prior to each nozzle
I am in the midst of planning a cell phone gauge pod. I will have a cell phone mounted somewhere at all times communicating through one of the car diag apps via a bluetooth obd2 pigtail. I think as far as tuning goes i need to watch AFR and dial it in, then get my 100 octane tune and re-dial it in?
Instead of 3 solenoids, here's an idea. I'm guessing you'll be installing a "T" connection somewhere in your setup so that you can run one line to the throttle body and one line to the charge pipe. Mount the one solenoid that you already have before the "T". This will keep meth from flowing when the car is shut off. The lines that run out to your nozzles either use a check valve holder or inline check valve which are mechanical and crack under pump pressure. You'll want those as close to the nozzles as possible to prevent unwanted siphoning.
riceburner
Autocross Champion
I appreciate it.
From some further reading, i am thinking it may be worthwhile to keep one solenoid between the pump and tank as well, to ensure the pump never has a dry moment.
So to confirm the order of operations:
Tank
Solenoid
Pump
Solenoid
T fitting
Checkvalve close to nozzles
Nozzles
From some further reading, i am thinking it may be worthwhile to keep one solenoid between the pump and tank as well, to ensure the pump never has a dry moment.
So to confirm the order of operations:
Tank
Solenoid
Pump
Solenoid
T fitting
Checkvalve close to nozzles
Nozzles
GoodTimesIndeed
Go Kart Champion
I don't think the extra solenoid between pump and tank is necessary. Nothing "should" flow through the pump without power to it. But to be safe that is why the solenoid is placed after the pump and before your nozzles and such. All in the prevention of allowing meth to flow through unwanted. like when running the car with the meth system off.
Tank
(Inline particle filter wouldn't hurt here)
Pump
Solenoid
T fitting
Checkvalve close to nozzles
riceburner
Autocross Champion
ah yes, didn't think about a particle filter. That's important, as particles can definately clog a little nozzle.
Just doing all I can to make sure i can SAFELY run a race fuel tune with meth.
Thanks!
Just doing all I can to make sure i can SAFELY run a race fuel tune with meth.
Thanks!
GoodTimesIndeed
Go Kart Champion
You will need a Failsafe to properly do this!
riceburner
Autocross Champion
and further down the rabbit hole i go... i'm only aware of a few failsafe systems, AEM and maybe Aquamist? These are gauges &sensors that automatically cut things like boost/timing etc if it senses a problem right?
GoodTimesIndeed
Go Kart Champion
Yes, that's correct. SnowPerformance makes one as well.
The 100oct file runs very aggressive timing (esp APRs 100 file). I believe the ecu can only correct for like 12 degrees or so (not 100% sure on this). If something goes wrong during mid pull you want something thats going to dump boost/limp mode.
I have the SnowPerformance wastegate solenoid and SP failsafe module but was never able to get it to correctly work right. I'm now learning that it might have something to do with my AEM progressive controller not playing nicely with the failsafe. The wastegate solenoid is what is actually powered during a system error or failure and what physically reroutes (aka dumps) boost and enters limp mode.
If I had the chance to do this all over again I would go Aquamist, no doubt.
riceburner
Autocross Champion
so i'd be looking into these?
https://www.snowperformance.net/Snow-Performance-Safe-Injection-Unit-p/30020.htm
https://www.snowperformance.net/Safe-Injection-Boost-Solenoid-p/30100.htm
good chance they would 'play well' considering everything else I have so far is SP. I'll keep looking into all of this, because yea once I'm done collecting all the parts I'd not be far off from the price of an HFS-4 kit which is like 900 bucks...
https://www.snowperformance.net/Snow-Performance-Safe-Injection-Unit-p/30020.htm
https://www.snowperformance.net/Safe-Injection-Boost-Solenoid-p/30100.htm
good chance they would 'play well' considering everything else I have so far is SP. I'll keep looking into all of this, because yea once I'm done collecting all the parts I'd not be far off from the price of an HFS-4 kit which is like 900 bucks...
GoodTimesIndeed
Go Kart Champion
Not saying you SHOULD buy this brand or this part, just trying to more less inform you that if you choose to want to run the 100oct file I would only do so with the necessary precautions in place. If running for cooling effects only then these aren't necessary.
I know others will probably chime in and say they run this and that and they're fine (which is OK). Just trying to pass some info on.
And yes, I have WAY over the cost of an HFS kit sunk into my system. If I could sell it all and do it over I wouldn't hesitate. The HFS-4 is just a complete, fail proof system that works and injects on so many different levels then "boost" and "variable pump voltage".
riceburner
Autocross Champion
i hear you man. Well, suppose we will see. I'm all for failsafes though. Gonna be updating all of my stuff together in the cart see what it comes out to haha
Mostic
Go Kart Champion
I ran K04 on my MKV for about 5 years with a race file daily. It saw track time. After I dialed it in this is what I had and it worked very well. It was about 336/335 on dyno with first series of tunes and then tuner jumped timing a bit more and I did not get back to dyno but I could feel the change so I was probably running in the 340's. Car surprised a lot of folks at the track.
Snow stage 2 kit MAFU
Ran 50% distilled water / methanol by volume
2 nozzles
225ml in bung just past intercooler
225ml in throttle body plate
Solenoid between reservoir and pump
Solenoid will of course prevent loss of fluid if there is a leak somewhere downstream from reservoir when system is off (gravity feed / siphoning)
You can buy 225ml jets with built-in check valves - recommended because it is important to get the checkvalve as close to nozzle as possible and push to connect fittings are inherently leaky.
When working with the tubing and connectors try not to put too much stress on tubing connections by bending tubing.
I did not run with a failsafe and don't think you need one for this setup. The ECU can drop 12 degrees of timing and go into limp mode if it needs to.
While running AAA Speedway I ran a full session with a failed water/meth system that was not spraying at all. ECU just dialed back timing. I didn't discover the failure until I went to fill up the reservoir for the next session.
Snow supplies you with sealer for threads of nozzles. If you need more you can actually buy at a local craft store or online. Snow told me that it is E6000.
The controllers are not really high-tech devices (well calibrated) but this will help you get to settings that work for you. Here is a pic of my final settings.
riceburner
Autocross Champion
i appreciate all the input giac! Thanks alot!