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The Official K04 Club (Experiences and Troubleshooting)

Sauce118

Sauce118

Ready to race!
Hey thanks man. I was thinking that could be a possibility as well, I was going to log boost, then fuel trim, then ignition timing. I would have seen this when logging boost but i am out of town for work with my car in DC and they have red light radar traps EVERYWHERE here so I was gonna wait till I got home to Pittsburgh to do my logging. It does run very well other than the hesitation. Thanks for taking the time and effort to share this much knowledge Mayne.



CiHKAL said:
Do me and yourself a favor if you have a chance. Do a pull starting at 4500RPM in the same manner you did when starting at a lower RPM. APR's V3.1 tune purposely does not go to full boost until around 4100RPM. This is done for power management and really turbo longevity. Under lower RPMs when the system is not consuming a lot of air, pressure can approach 40psig easily without proper control; hope you like surging :p. It looks like you're flooring it right before this point which is why you see the abrupt step up in boost. For a really poor analogy think of VTEC, but as boost modulation rather than changing the cam lobe profile. You could also do a test flooring it at a much lower RPM which will show you how the system maintains a lower boost purposely. You're lugging your engine though, and putting the turbo safety measures programmed by APR in the K04 tune to the test. You'll be fine, but it's not ideal.

I don't think you have anything wrong with your car. I say this because it's well known the V3.1 steps up boost past 4k which matches what you see in your video. I also see this in the specified boost (boost set point by the ECU) when I log via APR mobile.

Look at when the boost goes to its maxima, right at the RPM point, just past 4k. Your boost then trails off which is to be expected as the ECU controls the specified boost on a downwards trend towards redline. Purposely done based on turbo efficiency.

Your car actually looks like it's running really well mang. See the pics below from your video directly showing you what I'm saying. Note the boost and RPM of each.







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Sauce118

Sauce118

Ready to race!
Spark plugs man. Gap and change ur spark plugs. Fixed my problem.
 
KFahey

KFahey

Ready to race!
Sauce118 said:
Spark plugs man. Gap and change ur spark plugs. Fixed my problem.
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Really? I have brand new plugs in and they should be gapped correctly. Can you record a video of your boost while doing a pull in 3rd gear at 40mph for me?

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CiHKAL1

CiHKAL1

Ready to race!
Sauce118 said:
Spark plugs man. Gap and change ur spark plugs. Fixed my problem.
Click to expand...
If you're running APR V3.1 then the step up in boost is not an issue. It's 100% done on purpose and confirmed by APR for turbo longevity.

Log a 4th gear pull from 3K to redline and you'll see the boost transition point a little over 4K.

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Sauce118

Sauce118

Ready to race!
CiHKAL said:
If you're running APR V3.1 then the step up in boost is not an issue. It's 100% done on purpose and confirmed by APR for turbo longevity.

Log a 4th gear pull from 3K to redline and you'll see the boost transition point a little over 4K.

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Click to expand...


I don't disagree with you man. But when wot at 3k my boost gauge shouldn't have been bouncing like a basketball. I just put the bkr8eix or whatever they are from NgK in and gapped at .6mm. The brk7s I pulled out my car were like gapped at twice that. It runs a little "rougher" at idle but at wot it runs super smooth. It got rid of 90% of the problem I had which is the same one the other guy had. I understand they don't want a 40psi boost spike at Low Rpms and that's a good fail safe. However what my car was doing was not purposely done by apr. But it's much better now. I will do a pull for you someday soon here. I'm living the hotel life right now until the end of the year but I do have my car so when I find a good place to let er loose I'll do it and let ya know. I would check the gap and make sure your running iridium plugs for a start. I'm just glad Jt wasn't my BOV
 
KFahey

KFahey

Ready to race!
Sauce118 said:
I don't disagree with you man. But when wot at 3k my boost gauge shouldn't have been bouncing like a basketball. I just put the bkr8eix or whatever they are from NgK in and gapped at .6mm. The brk7s I pulled out my car were like gapped at twice that. It runs a little "rougher" at idle but at wot it runs super smooth. It got rid of 90% of the problem I had which is the same one the other guy had. I understand they don't want a 40psi boost spike at Low Rpms and that's a good fail safe. However what my car was doing was not purposely done by apr. But it's much better now. I will do a pull for you someday soon here. I'm living the hotel life right now until the end of the year but I do have my car so when I find a good place to let er loose I'll do it and let ya know. I would check the gap and make sure your running iridium plugs for a start. I'm just glad Jt wasn't my BOV
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Yeah I have a slightlllyyyy rougher idle as well.....yeah man when you get a chance do a pull in 3rd or 4th and like 3k rpm I'd appreciate it.

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J

Jlove8128

Ready to race!
Twice in the last 2 weeks when going wot the car just dies at 4,000 rpm in 4th. When I switch gears it's fine. I really hope it's not valve float, I will jump off a bridge if it is.


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KFahey

KFahey

Ready to race!
Jlove8128 said:
Twice in the last 2 weeks when going wot the car just dies at 4,000 rpm in 4th. When I switch gears it's fine. I really hope it's not valve float, I will jump off a bridge if it is.


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From my understanding valve float only occurs under wot in 5-6k rpm range and it's misfires/hesistations

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zrickety

zrickety

The Fixer
Don't remember if I updated, but what I thought was valve float was my forge spacer on the DV. Removed it and the hesitation went away.
 
Sauce118

Sauce118

Ready to race!
yea those spacers no matter what company are always trouble. I ran one when I was stage two, but when I went k04 I switched to a relocated CTS true vacuum actuated BOV.. I know I might run rich between shifts or whatever but other than that it runs like a champ and it still doesn't give the super ricer sound.. its just like the spacers except slightly higher pitched and much louder.. The guy who owns the tune shop around here that is highly respected said he thought the hesitation might be the CTS BOV, but the new spark plugs took care of much of the problem.. it still will hesitate a tiny bit when punching low rpm in 3/4th but like the guy above said I think it might be a fail safe from apr to prevent boost spikes at low rpm. I can live with it thought I think...
 
Sauce118

Sauce118

Ready to race!
im looking into the no lift shift and possibly launch control to get added here pretty soon.., anyone else have those add ons?
 
CiHKAL1

CiHKAL1

Ready to race!
KFahey said:
From my understanding valve float only occurs under wot in 5-6k rpm range and it's misfires/hesistations

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Yep, it happens closer to redline while under boost. I had it happen about 10k miles after going K04 and then swapped out the springs for APRs

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CiHKAL1

CiHKAL1

Ready to race!
Sauce118 said:
yea those spacers no matter what company are always trouble. I ran one when I was stage two, but when I went k04 I switched to a relocated CTS true vacuum actuated BOV.. I know I might run rich between shifts or whatever but other than that it runs like a champ and it still doesn't give the super ricer sound.. its just like the spacers except slightly higher pitched and much louder.. The guy who owns the tune shop around here that is highly respected said he thought the hesitation might be the CTS BOV, but the new spark plugs took care of much of the problem.. it still will hesitate a tiny bit when punching low rpm in 3/4th but like the guy above said I think it might be a fail safe from apr to prevent boost spikes at low rpm. I can live with it thought I think...
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The V3.1 tune doesn't cause hesitation it just controls boost throughout the RPM band. Knowing you have a BOV that probably is contributing to your issue. The car really isn't made for one and the issues it can cause aren't worth the noise.

Modern turbo engines have a lot going on. Hell even the DV+ kit will cause a code to be thrown depending on the springs used. APR still recommends using the stock piston revision valve.

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KFahey

KFahey

Ready to race!
CiHKAL said:
Yep, it happens closer to redline while under boost. I had it happen about 10k miles after going K04 and then swapped out the springs for APRs

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Damn after 10k miles? I thought I was in the clear for valve float since it hasn't happened in 2k miles with the k04....

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CiHKAL1

CiHKAL1

Ready to race!
KFahey said:
Damn after 10k miles? I thought I was in the clear for valve float since it hasn't happened in 2k miles with the k04....

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What year is your car? There are different sets of springs that were used and some are weaker. I believe most cars made in 2013 are good with the revised springs. If it was made before then the only way to know ahead of time is to follow APRs guide to check.

Pain in the ass when it happens.

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