6
Loud screeching noise from engine bay
- Thread starter DaButcher
- Start date
sauceman101
Ready to race!
Just put two new star specs on, bought a peloquin diff, pieced together a DIY RSR kit, need to buy a new flywheel. Turbo is gonna have to wait a few months haha
So I got to look at the exhaust manifold today and the bolts are still there.. Nothing appears to be broken, however I came across a lone bolt below the manifold what appears to have carbon soot on it. I'll post a picture of the bolt. Could this be the problem area? What is this area anyways?
Last edited:
Dr Dad
Drag Race Newbie
So I got to look at the exhaust manifold today and the bolts are still there.. Nothing appears to be broken, however I came across a lone bolt below the manifold what appears to have carbon soot on it. I'll post a picture of the bolt. Could this be the problem area? What is this area anyways?
Maybe your exhaust manifold gasket is shot?
This thread may help:http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87520
Yep, it's broken towards the top right bolt.. Luckily the bolt is not snapped off as well. Calling the dealership tomorrow. Apparently this is an emissions warranty item since my car is PZEV.
mto386
Go Kart Newbie
When my manifold stud snapped, it didn't fall out. Only sign was the soot.
That bolt fastens a shelf like bracket to the block, it indirectly holds the manifold. It rests on it with the 5 bolts at the top holding it in place. That doesn't look like a soot footprint, it looks kinda splattery. More like oil dripped down the manifold somehow. What you should be looking at are the bolts right above.
mto386
Go Kart Newbie
Got a picture or is it the one above?
It was in fact a broken gasket and bolt just like yours. Dealer covered it since it's considered an emissions part and California emission warranty is to 150,000. I lucked out big time. I don't understand how the hell that bolt broke to begin with...
mto386
Go Kart Newbie
Could you give me the info that your dealer gave to you for the warranty?
http://http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/levprog/levii/regordr.pdf
Read Title 13 Section 1962. The dealer and/or volkswagon MUST repair any emission related defects if your car has less then 150,000 miles or is less than 10 years old. I would raise them hell if I were you.
sauceman101
Ready to race!
Confirmed. My driverside exhaust manifold stud is/was broken as well. As soon as I took the trans out and got a better look only to find more soot in that area than I previously could see, I figured that was the issue. Should have the turbo and manifold off tonight and hopefully that stud won't fight too bad. I'd love to put the turbo back on tomorrow and put the trans back in next week if my differential shim ships quickly! I'll update one more time after it's back together to confirm that noise is gone for good finally.
Attachments
-
IMG_8184.JPG
mto386
Go Kart Newbie
Confirmed. My driverside exhaust manifold stud is/was broken as well. As soon as I took the trans out and got a better look only to find more soot in that area than I previously could see, I figured that was the issue. Should have the turbo and manifold off tonight and hopefully that stud won't fight too bad. I'd love to put the turbo back on tomorrow and put the trans back in next week if my differential shim ships quickly! I'll update one more time after it's back together to confirm that noise is gone for good finally.
What are you going to use to get it out? Make sure to use a strait edge and see of the manifold is warped.
sauceman101
Ready to race!
I'll be checking the manifold as well as the head to make sure they're all squared away. Worst case scenario I dip into savings a hair and find a used K04. I already have a K03/K04 install kit ready for this turbo to go back on, wouldn't need much more to make that work, but I'd love to check out the new APR stage 2 tune for a year or so before going K04 or big turbo.
I should be able to update straightness of the head and manifold tomorrow if everything goes well tonight removing the turbo.
sauceman101
Ready to race!
Update: had to pull the motor.
Tried patiently with a right angle drill, to get a hole started to use a reverse out, all I was doing was ruining the threads in the head. Not enough room to use a center punch and a hammer to get a good shot on it. It sheared about 1/3" into the head and not flat, there's an angle to it, that's why I keep sliding and taking out threads. I should be able to get it out tonight, now that the motor is pulled. Will likely need to tap that stud hole out as well.
Going to order the cam chain tensioner kit from HS tuning and take care of that with the motor out, instead of waiting to do it in two months with the motor back in the car.
