GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

Direct Ozone Reduction Catalyst Temperature Sensor///// Radiator Identification Senso

AccelaSX

Ready to race!
I am wondering, could someone with a good working sensor put probe ends into the wires feeding the sensor and take some Volt, amp, capacitance and ohms readings both when the car is cold , and then when it has warmed to operating temperature. Maybe we can get a prototype fix designed..
I am surprised no one has come up with a simulator for this yet being that it is such a temperamental pain in the ass even when it is working

I wish it was that simple. The sensor is lin bus operated and apparently it sends to ECU more than just a temperature information to confirm that its operational and nothing has been tempered with. PremAir DOR radiators have been used on many cars for the last few years and everywhere they cause problems. As far as i know no one was able to create something that will override or replicate this sensor.
 
Last edited:

50cool50

New member
I wish it was that simple. The sensor is lin bus operated and apparently it sends to ECU more than just a temperature information to confirm that its operational and nothing has been tempered with. PremAir DOR radiators have been used on many cars for the last few years and everywhere they cause problems. As far as i know no one was able to create something that will override or replicate this sensor.



I found this part online without the radiator;

http://www.partsgeek.com/1sdqd78-me...pp&utm_term=Mercedes+Water+Temperature+Sensor

the interesting thing about this website is they send you a remanufactured sensor and they require your old sensor from you for core purposes, which should tell you that there is a way to reassemble the sensor back to working again. A requirement for the new sensor they send you is that you drill out the old nipple from the radiator..which should tell you that the id tagging that they are telling us from the sensor is a load of b.s. and is not radiator specific like VW would have us believe... Would I be right in thinking the sensor thermistor is measuring nothing more than specific temperature information biasing with the output of the coolant temp sensor.?

It makes sense, its just a resin nipple and a piece of copper wire that snaps off.

I would pay any man here a thousand dollars to come up with a way to recondition one of them old sensors... I know it can be done
 
Last edited:

AccelaSX

Ready to race!
I found this part online without the radiator;

http://www.partsgeek.com/1sdqd78-me...pp&utm_term=Mercedes+Water+Temperature+Sensor

the interesting thing about this website is they send you a remanufactured sensor and they require your old sensor from you for core purposes, which should tell you that there is a way to reassemble the sensor back to working again. A requirement for the new sensor they send you is that you drill out the old nipple from the radiator..which should tell you that the id tagging that they are telling us from the sensor is a load of b.s. and is not radiator specific like VW would have us believe... Would I be right in thinking the sensor thermistor is measuring nothing more than specific temperature information biasing with the output of the coolant temp sensor.?

It makes sense, its just a resin nipple and a piece of copper wire that snaps off.

I would pay any man here a thousand dollars to come up with a way to recondition one of them old sensors... I know it can be done

You are right that the probe itself measures the temperature, but then it combines the temperature data with some other data to tell ECU what the temp is and that the information came from an authentic sensor. What would be interesting to see, if sensor from benz will work in VW.
 

50cool50

New member
You are right that the probe itself measures the temperature, but then it combines the temperature data with some other data to tell ECU what the temp is and that the information came from an authentic sensor. What would be interesting to see, if sensor from benz will work in VW.

Eureka! I took my sensor and resoldered the copper wire back to the nipple. I used Just a tiny bit of solder ... I believe it is very specific on the length of the copper wire ..on distance /air flow around the wire and the aluminum tab as part of its ID information it is sending., so I used little spacers between the radiator tab and the little black box. and now no ceL. ... At first I had it wrapped up in electrical tape and it was throwing the ceL....but now with the spacers and air flow - nothing... so far...have to wait and see if the light comes back
I am very pleased with my aftermarket basic radiator Saved myself a few hundy bills -stick your sensor up your ass audi
:w00t:
 
Last edited:

AccelaSX

Ready to race!
Eureka! I took my sensor and resoldered the copper wire back to the nipple. I used Just a tiny bit of solder ... I believe it is very specific on the length of the copper wire ..on distance /air flow around the wire and the aluminum tab as part of its ID information it is sending., so I used little spacers between the radiator tab and the little black box. and now no ceL. ... At first I had it wrapped up in electrical tape and it was throwing the ceL....but now with the spacers and air flow - nothing...
I am very pleased with my aftermarket basic radiator Saved myself a few hundy bills -stick your sensor up your ass audi
:w00t:

Congrats!! :clap:
 

50cool50

New member
I'm that guy. I took it out and zip tied it aside - CEL thrown, I cleared it, CEL thrown again.

So, I put it back, spaced the IC back a bit for clearance - no CEL, ever (and it's been quite a while).

Yes, the plastic clips break when you remove it. But, it fit in snugly when I put it back. I didn't use adhesive, and it hasn't moved.


My thought is (and I can't confirm this at all), it's a temperature sensor. I have no idea if it works by resistance or some other method. I think it senses the radiator temperature and references something else, like the coolant temp. If they don't jive, it assumes it's been tampered with and throws a code.

As for a simple fix (like a resistor) - that depends on how "smart" the coding is. It could easily be coded to not be "fooled" by a constant hot signal, and therefore not fooled by a resistor. However, that's pure speculation on my part........

In the end, putting it back worked, so I'm not messing with it any further.

My stupid light came back on again. So much for the celebrating. : /

Bcon, when you removed your sensor that time, did the nipple remain attached to the sensor? Or did it break away when you removed it from the radiator?
Has anyone ever had any success in getting the sensor to work again after the nipple has broke away?
 

crazyasamexican

New member
Longtime reader of the forums, but figured it'd be a good time to make my debut post and share my experiences.

Coming back home from a California trip, had my Check Engine come on and drove to a PepBoys to check it out. P2568. So I figured there was nothing I could do at 7PM on a Saturday so I started my drive back home to Vegas.

On the last steep grade getting into town, I noticed my temp gauge flying to the right so I pulled over to check things out. Fans were running on max but the air coming out of the radiators was cold/ambient, water was in the reservoir and everything seemed cherry. By the time I got back in the car, the temperature was falling closer to 190 (about 210ish) so I limped up the hill some more and again the temperature rose. Did this 5-6 times until I got over the hill. Made it home and to the dealer after that without a problem on Monday.

Got a call Monday evening saying that they were going to replace the radiator/sensor since it's one whole "piece."

Picked the car up Wednesday, drove home, all fine. Drove to work, overheating again. Fans on high, radiator cold, but motor was toasty. So I fired up my heater in the and surprisingly limped my way back to the dealer with my temps sticking to 190.

Got the car back today (Thursday) with a new water pump and hopefully a functioning cooling system.

Car is a 13' DSG with 27k miles and on it's now second water pump all covered under warranty since I luckily purchased the extended.
:thumbsup:
 

songyun

Ready to race!
I had this code last year. they replaced a waterpump for me. Then I had this again yesterday. Erased it this morning see if CEL will show up again. might take it to dealer later.
 

goose1

Ready to race!
Wondering if this would also cause that mysterious U102F canbus timeout code I keep getting, it would be horribly wasteful to have to get a brand new radiator because a sensor went bad

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 

goose1

Ready to race!
Well among other things my sensor went bad, service guy said the radiator is completely fine but the sensor went bad and I was quoted a good bit of money to replace it, declined as it is only a sporadic CEL I'm thinking of ordering a radiator for just the sensor if I can't find one and just reinstalling it without the adhesive.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 

ACHILLES R32

Drag Racing Champion
Had the sensor and radiator replaced last year. Water pump got replaced. Code kept coming back , took it to dealer and they said sensor was functioning fine and they cleared the code... Now It's back again , think it might be weather related as dumb as that sounds it was fine all winter but as soon as temps go up its back. I'm beginning to think I got a lemon. I never had so many issues with my MK4 and that thing had 90k miles. This car is just at 17500 ..I cleared it again, will keep an eye out my warranty expires in August. Anyone want to buy a used 2013 GTI
[emoji23] [emoji23]

1water pump replace
1 sensor/radiator replaced.....




Sent from my Nexus 5X
 
Last edited:

ACHILLES R32

Drag Racing Champion
Damn code is back again, not clearing it this time scheduled another appointment with a different VW dealer.

Sent from my Nexus 5X
 

goose1

Ready to race!
Assuming I have a functioning, non broken sensor, does it need to be in the radiator or is there somewhere else I can have it while still being plugged in

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
Top