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ANYONE IN NORTH CAROLINA

ncsugray90

Ready to race!
Vehicle hardware is now 100% stock with the exception of a torque mount insert that I couldnt remove, lol. I put a stage 1 tune on it but havent tested it yet. Havent test driven the car hard yet, just around the block in stock mode. I still have to reassemble the interior of the car. I still have to take apart the dash to remove all the meth system components. After that interior reassembly truely begins and that is truly my last steps. After that, fix a scratch and then list it on craigslist.

Also, my wife doesnt head to Raleigh for a few more weeks. I have found a few friends that head to Raleigh often as well. If i hear they are going again before my wife, I will give them the belly pan to deliver to you. cool?
Works for me, I'm in no rush.

I have a question for you though, how much of a pain is it to swap differentials in the GTI? I'm gonna be piecing together and installing a DIY RSR clutch soon and eventually would like to pop a LSD in there as well. I know my friend and I can handle the clutch, but cracking open the tranny is a step further than either of us have gone before, and I'm hesitant about drilling off the ring gear without an actual press. Looks like you k kw these cars pretty well so I'm curious for your $0.02

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GTR_Killer

Go Kart Champion
I encourage you to do as much yourself as possible but some stuff just isnt worth the learning mistake or frustration. I recommend carefully taking the trans apart. Take the stock diff somewhere and have them get the ring off. Sounds like you are ill equipped. Then take the case and your new diff to someone who knows how to shim a diff properly or learn and resesrch how very carefully. You dont want to screw that up. It only goes back together one way so u cant acrew that up at least, lol
 

ncsugray90

Ready to race!
I encourage you to do as much yourself as possible but some stuff just isnt worth the learning mistake or frustration. I recommend carefully taking the trans apart. Take the stock diff somewhere and have them get the ring off. Sounds like you are ill equipped. Then take the case and your new diff to someone who knows how to shim a diff properly or learn and resesrch how very carefully. You dont want to screw that up. It only goes back together one way so u cant acrew that up at least, lol
Yeah, shimming the diff was also a concern. Unfortunately I live in an apartment and my "shop" is a dinky 3' x 10' closet attached to my carport, else I'd buy the proper equiptment. I'll have a shop properly install the diff if I decide to go that route. If not, I'll wait until I have better means of working on the car

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GTR_Killer

Go Kart Champion
Yeah, shimming the diff was also a concern. Unfortunately I live in an apartment and my "shop" is a dinky 3' x 10' closet attached to my carport, else I'd buy the proper equiptment. I'll have a shop properly install the diff if I decide to go that route. If not, I'll wait until I have better means of working on the car

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Yea, if you can get the trans out and just bring the trans and diff to someone that should save you a whole ton of money. I have a very reputable guy here who will do that for you for around $400 if you bring him everything. All he does is work on trans stuff.
 

ncsugray90

Ready to race!
Having issues getting my spacer get me through inspections, looking for a stock mk6 exhaust I can put on. Willing to meet buyer anywhere that's a reasonable drive from Raleigh. Engine code is CBFA which should have 3 o2 sensor ports. Let me know what you got!

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_Remy_

Passed Driver's Ed
Having issues getting my spacer get me through inspections, looking for a stock mk6 exhaust I can put on. Willing to meet buyer anywhere that's a reasonable drive from Raleigh. Engine code is CBFA which should have 3 o2 sensor ports. Let me know what you got!

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The spacer isn't working to prevent a CEL?
 

ncsugray90

Ready to race!
The spacer isn't working to prevent a CEL?
It's preventing the 420 code, but throwing a 140/141 code even with a new o2 sensor. I'm at the inspection place now as the CEL is currently off, but I'm not 100% sure all the readiness has been reset. Fingers crossed.

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ncsugray90

Ready to race!
Whew, readiness reset and the pending 141 code never triggered the CEL so I'm good for another year. I will definitley be getting a stock downpipe and fitting it before next inspection though, this was way more of a pain than I needed it to be, haha

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_Remy_

Passed Driver's Ed
Glad you got it sorted [emoji106]

In other news, how difficult is it to swap steering wheels? I'm thinking about getting a flat bottom to replace the Tig's round


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nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
It's preventing the 420 code, but throwing a 140/141 code even with a new o2 sensor. I'm at the inspection place now as the CEL is currently off, but I'm not 100% sure all the readiness has been reset. Fingers crossed.

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Those O2 spacers are a hit-or-miss ordeal. I had one before and CEL showed up shortly after install. Either upgrade to stage 2 or just revert back to a stock DP. It's really not worth the hassle, especially when it comes to NC inspections.
 

ncsugray90

Ready to race!
Those O2 spacers are a hit-or-miss ordeal. I had one before and CEL showed up shortly after install. Either upgrade to stage 2 or just revert back to a stock DP. It's really not worth the hassle, especially when it comes to NC inspections.
Well even if I go to stage 2 I'll need to revert to a stock downpipe for emissions. Stage two trips 2 readiness sensors, so I'll get failed. If it switching would have got me through, then I definitley would have done it instead, haha

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GTR_Killer

Go Kart Champion
anyone have any 225/45/R17 tires laying around that they know they wont be using and want to sell? Trying to put tires on some stock wheels I have laying around so I can sell this car. or if anyone has 17 or 18" wheels that come with tires with half decent tread, I'll entertain that as well.
 

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
Well even if I go to stage 2 I'll need to revert to a stock downpipe for emissions. Stage two trips 2 readiness sensors, so I'll get failed. If it switching would have got me through, then I definitley would have done it instead, haha

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Not true. I pass inspection with mine. Do you drive the car for at least 15 miles prior to inspection?
 

ncsugray90

Ready to race!
Not true. I pass inspection with mine. Do you drive the car for at least 15 miles prior to inspection?

Interesting. I drive it for long enough to have the readiness markers reset, but having talked with John at Unitronic he said stage 2 disables 2 readiness checks and we are only allowed to pass with one check disabled in NC. Maybe Mecklinburg inspections aren't as strict as Wake?
 

jettaglis

Go Kart Champion
Not true. I pass inspection with mine. Do you drive the car for at least 15 miles prior to inspection?

Your not Unitronic tuned though.

With uni, stage 2 or higher will not pass nc inspection. It would need to go to stock, stage 1 or 1+ then have readiness set on everything but the rear 02. It still can be done with a downpipe on and no need to swap back to a stock downpipe. Another reason having the Uniconnect+ device makes inspection time easier.
 
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