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Car won't run after intalling some Audio

PR_dub

PR_dub

Passed Driver's Ed
GREAT.. yesterday was a looong day. I began early in the morning to install some audio equipment I gathered for some while now and had not yet come around to actually put it to work. So long story short, the actual install went along well.

Wrapping things up around 10pm, we finally hooked up the battery to move the car so we could finish cleanup and head home when... the car stalls out.

When the car stated for the first time, I noticed the lights dimmed when turning the wheel, but said to myself "might be that the battery drained a little", and also a couple lights came up on the dashboard: Yellow steering wheel light, ESP Error, and TMPS. Going along with it, I moved the car and parked outside(stepped out of the car and left it running thinking it was a little drained) so that the shop owners' truck could be locked up for the night. barely 30 seconds after stepping out of the car, it suddenly stalls, and a I rush to it to see what happened. I quickly tried to start it again and it started but died quickly. after that, turned over but didn't run. I ended going home in the shop truck and left the car at the shop.

I read up on many installs here on the forum to be sure how to remove every single panel touched (including glove box and center console). Everything seems to be good with fuses and there is power to the car entire car...

Today, I went back to charge it up a little and try to start it again. after a quick charge the car started! only for 1 minute... and again, it turns over but doesn't run.


Anyone know what the heck happend here??
mods in sig
 
Tk_mkv1

Tk_mkv1

Go Kart Champion
probably u fried the ecu, some1 else has the same problem now who is stage 2 n his ecu randomly fries, he also has aftermarket audio as well
 
steemax

steemax

Go Kart Champion
First things first, start small and check all your fuses.
I had a similar issue when I did some electric work. One of those cheap testers that lights up when you press it against the fuses showed all my fuses were good. Visually they looked good as well until i busted out the multimeter and found one of the fuses were barley giving any current at all... it was just enough to power a few things on and off...

Hope that helps.
 
nvturbo

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
Check the voltage of the battery, with the engine off and with it on.
OFF --- around 12.6V
ON --- around 14.4V
 
PR_dub

PR_dub

Passed Driver's Ed
steemax said:
First things first, start small and check all your fuses.
I had a similar issue when I did some electric work. One of those cheap testers that lights up when you press it against the fuses showed all my fuses were good. Visually they looked good as well until i busted out the multimeter and found one of the fuses were barley giving any current at all... it was just enough to power a few things on and off...

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

I did check them visually and they all looked to be good, but I didn't check with a multimeter, will do.


nvturbo said:
Check the voltage of the battery, with the engine off and with it on.
OFF --- around 12.6V
ON --- around 14.4V
Click to expand...

The OFF voltage was around 12.7-12.8V, couldn't check the ON voltage since the engine doesn't stay running, it only turns over like its supposed to but it doesn't start and stay running.



Today is a busy day for me but tomorrow I'm having the car towed to a mechanic so he can read all the codes through Vag-Com to see whats really happening. From others threads I searched, it looks like the ESP error and TMPS turn on after reconnecting the battery but on those treads the cars always started afterwards, not my case.
 
Jaber

Jaber

Modero
Is it possible your battery is strong enough to turn on the acc, but not actually crank or keep running?
 
PR_dub

PR_dub

Passed Driver's Ed
lilfleck said:
What exactly did you touch/change on the car?
Click to expand...

nvturbo said:
X2.

You can't really mess up a car audio install unless you don't know what you're doing.
Click to expand...

I was able to turn on the equipment when first moving the car (it was late/raining so we were rushing to move the cars and lock up the shop) and everything worked, had audio on all speakers and sub so I know the equipment itself is working properly.

Here is the setup used:

-RCD-510 Headunit
-Audiocontrol LC2i Line-out converter
-Clarion EQS746 7-band Equalizer
-Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 4-Channel Amplifier
-Rockford Fosgate P165-S Component Speakers (front/rear; woofers/tweets)
-Infinity Basslink I (powered sub)

LC2i and EQ are in glove box, 4 chan amp below drivers seat, and Basslink in the hatch.

I removed everything in the car: radio, ash tray, lifted center console, glovebox, door panels, rear panels, rear seats, front driver seat, carbonio intake, battery.. the whole works.

The equipment went in as follows:
1. Disconnected baterry, disconnect MAF and removed intake, and removed battery to route 4ga. cable to cabin.
2. Connected audio directly to radio harness tapping front speaker outputs using 4 trigger wires.
3. Removed air-con trim, and ash tray to be able to remove the glovebox. This was done to be able to hook up the radio output to the LC2i which I wanted located in the glove.
*disconected passanger airbag light on air-con trim, ESP button, and TMPS button. The TMPS got damaged and I'll replace when I get a new one.
4. From LC2i, the signal then goes to a clarion equalizer also located in the glovebox.
*Power for LC2i and EQ was taken from 2 add-a-circuit connected do driver-side fuse-box.
5. Routed 2 RCA's through the center console to come out under the driver seat, where the 4 channel amp is placed. routed a third RCA to the hatch for sub.
6. Routed power from battery (with inline fuse) to the fused distribution block under the drivers seat. from here, power distributed to amp and sub.
7. Routed new speaker wiring from under seat to all 4 speakers (front/rear).
8. swapped the 4 speakers and also replaced the 4 tweeters.
9. Re-assemble everything.

Here is where I think things might have gone wrong. my buddy began putting in the battery before finishing inside . This was before hooking in the TMPS button, the ESP button and the passenger airbag light on air-con trim. he did connect both terminals which I noticed from inside when the foot-well lights came on. I immediately told him to disconnect.

After that, we finished up and placed all the fuses and reconnected battery.

I then started up the car and it turned as normal and stayed running normally. when it was running, I noticed the lights that came on in the dashboard (Yellow steering wheel, ESP Error, and blinking TMPS). I proceeded to back out of the shop where I noticed the interior lights dimming when I turned the steering wheel. Moved the car and left it running thinking battery might be a little drained. when I get out of the car and leave the engine running, barely 30 seconds after it stalled. after that, I wasn't able to start it up again so had to push the car to the back of the shop.



Tomorrow I'll be getting it towed to the mechanic.
 
R

racermp

Ready to race!
is the battery cable on tightly? kinds a dumb thing but maybe it may have gotten loose on the fuse box side or is a bit loose. or on the battery it self.
 
PR_dub

PR_dub

Passed Driver's Ed
racermp said:
is the battery cable on tightly? kinds a dumb thing but maybe it may have gotten loose on the fuse box side or is a bit loose. or on the battery it self.
Click to expand...

Yes, I checked both pos+ and neg- terminals to the battery and they are on tight.
 
nvturbo

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
There's your problem: the battery was re-installed with plugs/sensors not connected. Hopefully you guys didn't fry anything. Another reason why I work solo when it comes to car audio installs or any electrical work. It's not the battery. The engine would not turn off once it is on.,
 
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