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HYDE16 Reviews - TyrolSport DeadSet Rigid Subframe Collar Kit
- Thread starter HYDE161
- Start date
mustache rash
Go Kart Champion
I want these so bad but can't justify that price.
grambles423
Automotive Engineer
But you must......you must.
Hello,
I got the Tyrol dead-set subframe collra fitted by VW dealership, but I still get the clunks! I have a feeling they didn't torque the bolts correctly, or, the rest of the bolt apart from the ARP bolts needs replacing also .
I know this has been discussed to death before, but I need help from those who knows, as I just want to make sure if the information I gathered is correct:
Bolt on location 1,2,5, and 6, by VW manual are torque to yield bolt and requires changing if loosened? And its torque spec is 52lb/ft + 1/4 turn?
I understand the Tyrol just need 52lb/ft torque without the turn.
What I saw during the install was, the VW mech didn't add the extra 1/4 turn for all of the 6 bolts and he didn't adjust his torque wrench either for all 6 bolts, which means they're all on the same torque value. I will come back to my VW dealership this weekend and get them to re-do the bolts, but I need someone's help here to confirm what needs to be done with bolt 1,2,5 and 6.
Or maybe I should just replace every single bolt requires to be loosened for swaybar installation (minus the ARP bolt of course)?
Please help~!
I got the Tyrol dead-set subframe collra fitted by VW dealership, but I still get the clunks! I have a feeling they didn't torque the bolts correctly, or, the rest of the bolt apart from the ARP bolts needs replacing also .
I know this has been discussed to death before, but I need help from those who knows, as I just want to make sure if the information I gathered is correct:
Bolt on location 1,2,5, and 6, by VW manual are torque to yield bolt and requires changing if loosened? And its torque spec is 52lb/ft + 1/4 turn?
I understand the Tyrol just need 52lb/ft torque without the turn.
What I saw during the install was, the VW mech didn't add the extra 1/4 turn for all of the 6 bolts and he didn't adjust his torque wrench either for all 6 bolts, which means they're all on the same torque value. I will come back to my VW dealership this weekend and get them to re-do the bolts, but I need someone's help here to confirm what needs to be done with bolt 1,2,5 and 6.
Or maybe I should just replace every single bolt requires to be loosened for swaybar installation (minus the ARP bolt of course)?
Please help~!
HYDE161
Go Kart Champion
Hello,
I got the Tyrol dead-set subframe collra fitted by VW dealership, but I still get the clunks! I have a feeling they didn't torque the bolts correctly, or, the rest of the bolt apart from the ARP bolts needs replacing also .
I know this has been discussed to death before, but I need help from those who knows, as I just want to make sure if the information I gathered is correct:
Bolt on location 1,2,5, and 6, by VW manual are torque to yield bolt and requires changing if loosened? And its torque spec is 52lb/ft + 1/4 turn?
I understand the Tyrol just need 52lb/ft torque without the turn.
What I saw during the install was, the VW mech didn't add the extra 1/4 turn for all of the 6 bolts and he didn't adjust his torque wrench either for all 6 bolts, which means they're all on the same torque value. I will come back to my VW dealership this weekend and get them to re-do the bolts, but I need someone's help here to confirm what needs to be done with bolt 1,2,5 and 6.
Or maybe I should just replace every single bolt requires to be loosened for swaybar installation (minus the ARP bolt of course)?
Please help~!
ARP bolts in locations 3 & 4 = 52 ft/lbs
Brand new Audi bolts in locations, 1, 2, 5, 6 = 82 ft/lbs + 1/4 turn
Last edited:
You're the man! Thanks!
HYDE161
Go Kart Champion
The Tyrol dead-set subframe is awesome though - when mine just got fitted before it was loosed again (the oem bolt and probably the arp bolt, damn vw), it feels like the suspension grew extra set of muscle. I think by filling up the hole on the subframe, creating a solid effect, turned it into as if you have one big bracing upfront.
Talguy
Go Kart Champion
What audi bolts did you use and how do they differ. I get the bolts that the arp bolts replace as they're stretch bolts. I replaced those with the passat bolts before upgrading to the tyrol kit. Will the audi bolts for 1,2,5,6 provide better centering like the passat bolts did?
HYDE161
Go Kart Champion
The Audi and Passat bolts are the same.
Credit
Ready to race!
@HYDE16 and @grambles423
Would you recommend this kit for cars that don't have clunking/knocking?
I'm not having any issues with clunking/knocking, but I'm installing my front sway bar in the next coming weeks. And I'm considering getting this kit for reinstalling the subframe for preventative reasons (I have 38,000 miles on my car now). Do you think it's necessary? Or would you recommend just buying 6 Audi (N-908-235-01) bolts?
Would you recommend this kit for cars that don't have clunking/knocking?
I'm not having any issues with clunking/knocking, but I'm installing my front sway bar in the next coming weeks. And I'm considering getting this kit for reinstalling the subframe for preventative reasons (I have 38,000 miles on my car now). Do you think it's necessary? Or would you recommend just buying 6 Audi (N-908-235-01) bolts?
HYDE161
Go Kart Champion
Hands down yes, it will allow your sway bars and remaining suspension to work more efficiently.
bimmer635csi
Ready to race!
Looking at the pictures in the original post, it seems like the "center disc" section of of the collars at Positions 2,3,4,5 are excessive diameter. The disc diameter is easily more than double that of the bolt head in Pos 3 & 4.
Why is that?
Is it just to make the collars all the same shape to ease manufacturing?
Is it to replace a washer so that a shorter bolt can be used? (I find this strange since a steel washer is probably much stiffer than a bronze disc)
The central disc portion at 1 & 6 seem to be a little larger than the washer. Not so bad, but I still see room for trimming the disc.
Any enlightenment is appreciated.
Why is that?
Is it just to make the collars all the same shape to ease manufacturing?
Is it to replace a washer so that a shorter bolt can be used? (I find this strange since a steel washer is probably much stiffer than a bronze disc)
The central disc portion at 1 & 6 seem to be a little larger than the washer. Not so bad, but I still see room for trimming the disc.
Any enlightenment is appreciated.