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MASTER CLUTCH APPLICATION GUIDE - WHAT DO WE REALLY NEED?

dasauto0108

Go Kart Champion
i did an lsd and motor mounts. some people do shift forks too. i guess the rear main seal isn't required but not a bad idea.

the other stuff doesn't require trans removal so i don't think stainless steel lines and short shifters should be added in. maybe the lines if you can't bleed it yourself but otherwise it's all easy to install.
^ Agreed. The bushings and short shifter are all easily accessible through the trop of the engine bay, and the work can be done in your driveway, or a garage with simple tools. If you're reasonably handy, you should be able to tackle the shifter and bushings.
 

skotcoop

Ready to race!
i did an lsd and motor mounts. some people do shift forks too. i guess the rear main seal isn't required but not a bad idea.

the other stuff doesn't require trans removal so i don't think stainless steel lines and short shifters should be added in. maybe the lines if you can't bleed it yourself but otherwise it's all easy to install.
Stainless steel lines? I'm confused.
 

skotcoop

Ready to race!
^ Agreed. The bushings and short shifter are all easily accessible through the trop of the engine bay, and the work can be done in your driveway, or a garage with simple tools. If you're reasonably handy, you should be able to tackle the shifter and bushings.
Yeah I'm leaning toward the clutch and the mounts. I dont see a reason for the rear crank seal with 16k miles. I wonder how difficult subframe mounts would be from the ground. I think I saw a post about them a while back. I've installed my DV+, discharge pipe, and intake so the bushings shouldn't be an issue. I'll have to double check the quote to see what exactly is meant by the shift kit because I think it just means the APR bracket.
 

dasauto0108

Go Kart Champion
Yeah I'm leaning toward the clutch and the mounts. I dont see a reason for the rear crank seal with 16k miles. I wonder how difficult subframe mounts would be from the ground. I think I saw a post about them a while back. I've installed my DV+, discharge pipe, and intake so the bushings shouldn't be an issue. I'll have to double check the quote to see what exactly is meant by the shift kit because I think it just means the APR bracket.

If it is the APR bracket, you can save a lot of money by having them not do that. APR's be bracket is insanely overpriced. You can find metal shift brackets on eBay for $25-35.


Sent from my iHipster
 

skotcoop

Ready to race!
Has anyone experienced a fairly loud chirp sound upon clutch disc engagement? I can't tell if its from the disc hitting the flywheel or from leaving the pressure plate. https://youtu.be/i4vcJk1x-Kw heres my video of it right around 10-12 seconds. Its gotten louder since this video but at one point it went away for a day or 2. Its starting to drive me nuts. I'm running a BFI stage 3 SMFW. It has around 3000 miles on it.
 

kthor7031

Go Kart Champion
Clutch update as of today I have 44,848 miles on my SB Stage 2 endurance with SMF :thumbup:
What sort of driving do you do? What tune/turbo are you running? Thinking about the s2 endurance (s2 daily now with around 40k on Apr k04 3.1). I get intermittent slip at peak torque and a few hundred rpm after. I'm concerned about longevity with the s2 endurance but your results look promising.

Edit: I realized I asked you about your driving habits two pages ago LOL. Do you do any autocross or hpde?
 
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JT641

Banned
What sort of driving do you do? What tune/turbo are you running? Thinking about the s2 endurance (s2 daily now with around 40k on Apr k04 3.1). I get intermittent slip at peak torque and a few hundred rpm after. I'm concerned about longevity with the s2 endurance but your results look promising.

Edit: I realized I asked you about your driving habits two pages ago LOL. Do you do any autocross or hpde?
Nope don't track the car especially since it's going up for sale very soon. you can see everything I've done to it here including latest dyno figures
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46439
 

kthor7031

Go Kart Champion
Had a nice long talk with Jon from Southbend Clutch today. As others have mentioned, he is very knowledgeable and was super helpful. He not only answered my questions, but gave great advice and some insight on the past development of the MK6 kits from the non silent to the silent designs. I'm going to dump some info that Jon shared with me on their clutch offerings that might be helpful for others.

  1. A stage 2 endurance clutch disk will last a bit longer than a daily kit. The catch however is that when the clutch IS done, the flywheel and pressure plate will have sustained more wear than if a daily was used.
  2. For all kits, when the clutch is done and needs to be replaced, it is always advised to clean up both the pressure plate and the flywheel to ensure a healthy clutch life and meet the torque holding capabilities. There are exceptions, but resurfacing is best practice as we all know.
  3. Southbend clutch will rebuild your kits. This involves sending them all of your components and having the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced and balanced. They will also compensate for the loss of material by providing a slightly thicker friction disk and/or provide some spacers of sorts to make sure the clamping load is the same as a new kit. Turn around time is around 2-3 business days from when they receive it. This does not include shipping time

Overall, never hesitate to give him a call. I left a message one night after hours and received a call back the next morning promptly.

With that, I plan to upgrade to a stage 2 endurance. With the APR k04 3.1 and other high torque k04 files, you are riding awful close to the torque capacity. I am only getting intermittent slip when hitting peak torque. It is only a pause and it resume accelerating once I push past 4500 RPM. While it is "sufficient" to hold the power, as it wears normally, you slowly lose holding capacity as the disk thins and the clamping load reduces as a result of having to keep contact on the disk. This is with all clutch disks, but having more headroom will allow you to stay ahead of the curve longer. If you are a stage 2 user and don't plan to go k04, I'm sure the daily will be sufficient with good life.
 
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skotcoop

Ready to race!
Had a nice long talk with Jon from Southbend Clutch today. As others have mentioned, he is very knowledgeable and was super helpful. He not only answered my questions, but gave great advice and some insight on the past development of the MK6 kits from the non silent to the silent designs. I'm going to dump some info that Jon shared with me on their clutch offerings that might be helpful for others.

  1. A stage 2 endurance clutch disk will last a bit longer than a daily kit. The catch however is that when the clutch IS done, the flywheel and pressure plate will have sustained more wear than if a daily was used.
  2. For all kits, when the clutch is done and needs to be replaced, it is always advised to clean up both the pressure plate and the flywheel to ensure a healthy clutch life and meet the torque holding capabilities. There are exceptions, but resurfacing is best practice as we all know.
  3. Southbend clutch will rebuild your kits. This involves sending them all of your components and having the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced and balanced. They will also compensate for the loss of material by providing a slightly thicker friction disk and/or provide some spacers of sorts to make sure the clamping load is the same as a new kit. Turn around time is around 2-3 business days from when they receive it. This does not include shipping time

Overall, never hesitate to give him a call. I left a message one night after hours and received a call back the next morning promptly.

With that, I plan to upgrade to a stage 2 endurance. With the APR k04 3.1 and other high torque k04 files, you are riding awful close to the torque capacity. I am only getting intermittent slip when hitting peak torque. It is only a pause and it resume accelerating once I push past 4500 RPM. While it is "sufficient" to hold the power, as it wears normally, you slowly lose holding capacity as the disk thins and the clamping load reduces as a result of having to keep contact on the disk. This is with all clutch disks, but having more headroom will allow you to stay ahead of the curve longer. If you are a stage 2 user and don't plan to go k04, I'm sure the daily will be sufficient with good life.
Cool thanks for the info. I'm considering going to SB because I'm not too thrilled with my BFI stage 3 with SMFW. Its noisy in every gear with only 1 034 subframe mount and with the fluidampr. The noise only gets worse with the AC on. Thats to say nothing about the chirping on engagement. Guess theres a reason it was $900 shipped :thumbdown:
 

JT641

Banned
Cool thanks for the info. I'm considering going to SB because I'm not too thrilled with my BFI stage 3 with SMFW. Its noisy in every gear with only 1 034 subframe mount and with the fluidampr. The noise only gets worse with the AC on. Thats to say nothing about the chirping on engagement. Guess theres a reason it was $900 shipped :thumbdown:
Mine is only noticeably noisy when I have the A/C on and I have the SB Stage 2 Endurance with SPM Engine and Trans Mounts and HPA Subframe mount and I still have yet to install my fluidampr. So I can only imagine it will be quieter with that installed

BTW I bought My SB Stage 2 Endurance from HS Tuning for about $1200, You can also check with Ringer Racing for SB Clutches as he gives forum discounts

Edit Bear in mind there are 2 versions of the endurance I have the part# ending in OFE as seen here (See Descriptions of each on this page) http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=540

I also paid extra for the factory upgraded 1 piece release bearing (more durable than the 2 piece plastic one that comes standard in most kits)
 
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kthor7031

Go Kart Champion
Mine is only noticeably noisy when I have the A/C on and I have the SB Stage 2 Endurance with SPM Engine and Trans Mounts and HPA Subframe mount and I still have yet to install my fluidampr. So I can only imagine it will be quieter with that installed

BTW I bought My SB Stage 2 Endurance from HS Tuning for about $1200, You can also check with Ringer Racing for SB Clutches as he gives forum discounts

Edit Bear in mind there are 2 versions of the endurance I have the part# ending in OFE as seen here (See Descriptions of each on this page) http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=540

I also paid extra for the factory upgraded 1 piece release bearing (more durable than the 2 piece plastic one that comes standard in most kits)
Are there any concerns with getting one of the endurance kits over the other? Is one default? I have only ever seen one.
 

JT641

Banned
Are there any concerns with getting one of the endurance kits over the other? Is one default? I have only ever seen one.
One is going to be more durable than the other. As far as which one is the default that would depend on who you order it from. When I bought mine there was only one version of the endurance. If you plan on going stage 2 or K04 I would go with same one I have as I've gotten a lot of miles out of mine. Talk to Mike from Ringer Racing He'll help you make the best choice.
 
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