NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
Thanks! it turned out looking way better than i thought it would
6
NewGuy's DSG CSG 2011 GTI
- Thread starter NewGuy1
- Start date
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
Been a minute since I've update this, things Ive done to my car since last update:
April 2021: Replaced my RCD 330 with an android unit that has wireless carplay.
Since cheap android stereos have finally surpassed a stereo thats ~10 years old.
Have had it for 7 months now and have had minimal issues and wireless carplay is amazing.
July 2021: Had my radiator explode, came out in the morning with coolant pooled under my car
Suspected water pump but fortunately(?) was my radiator that had separated along where plastic and the metal meet
and had a minor leak in the rear. Replaced with a nissans radiator that seemed to be a slight upgrade with more dense fins over stock.
April 2021: Replaced my RCD 330 with an android unit that has wireless carplay.
Since cheap android stereos have finally surpassed a stereo thats ~10 years old.
Have had it for 7 months now and have had minimal issues and wireless carplay is amazing.
July 2021: Had my radiator explode, came out in the morning with coolant pooled under my car
Suspected water pump but fortunately(?) was my radiator that had separated along where plastic and the metal meet
and had a minor leak in the rear. Replaced with a nissans radiator that seemed to be a slight upgrade with more dense fins over stock.
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
Over the last couple weeks Ive been finally getting back into working on my car.
Current issues I've been experiencing and going back in to resolve:
-DSG failing to engage into reverse after a drive and occasionally struggling to engage park.
-Squeaking noise from drivers side front suspension
-Metal clank noise after making a sharp left turn followed by a sharp right (often heard when parking)
-Low MPG, current average is 20.1 logged by fuelly dropped a bit after a radiator swap
Current issues I've been experiencing and going back in to resolve:
-DSG failing to engage into reverse after a drive and occasionally struggling to engage park.
-Squeaking noise from drivers side front suspension
-Metal clank noise after making a sharp left turn followed by a sharp right (often heard when parking)
-Low MPG, current average is 20.1 logged by fuelly dropped a bit after a radiator swap
Last edited:
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
I tried diagnosing my DSG issues over the last year.
The issues seem to stem from the metal flakes accumulating in the DSG from typical(?) wear.
In April I cleaned my sensor wheel and for about a week after the car drove like a dream with no hiccups whatsoever.
But soon returned to the previous state, which I imagine is because the sensor wheel reaccumulated particles on its surface
Before and after images below:
Also was surprised to see that my OEM dsg filter had basically disintegrated and it hasnt been long since my last DSG fluid change
This round i replaced fluid with Valvoline Dual Clutch transmission oil instead of the OEM febi stuff and it seems to be working well so far
The issues seem to stem from the metal flakes accumulating in the DSG from typical(?) wear.
In April I cleaned my sensor wheel and for about a week after the car drove like a dream with no hiccups whatsoever.
But soon returned to the previous state, which I imagine is because the sensor wheel reaccumulated particles on its surface
Before and after images below:
Also was surprised to see that my OEM dsg filter had basically disintegrated and it hasnt been long since my last DSG fluid change
This round i replaced fluid with Valvoline Dual Clutch transmission oil instead of the OEM febi stuff and it seems to be working well so far
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
At the start of November I said fuck it and threw an IE DSG tune on my car to see if that would help with my DSG issues.
My issues seemed to be software/sensor based as it would typically engage first try after turning my engine off then on
And I was hoping that the DSG tune overrode some of those sensor checks.
The tune has dramatically reduced occurrence of the failed reverse and parks.
about 80% less often which has been really nice.
Im just hoping to get a bit more out of my transmission before i have to bite the bullet on a swap.
My issues seemed to be software/sensor based as it would typically engage first try after turning my engine off then on
And I was hoping that the DSG tune overrode some of those sensor checks.
The tune has dramatically reduced occurrence of the failed reverse and parks.
about 80% less often which has been really nice.
Im just hoping to get a bit more out of my transmission before i have to bite the bullet on a swap.
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
Last couple weekends Ive been somewhat preparing my car for a stage 2 IE tune.
This means out with my non OEM red top coils and in with Bosch coils along with a fresh set of sparks.
Overall my sparks look good, I expected them to be off as based on my mpg my car runs rich.
I also cleaned my AEM dryflow filter as it badly needed to be cleaned, in the process though some of the red dye leeched out.
This means out with my non OEM red top coils and in with Bosch coils along with a fresh set of sparks.
Overall my sparks look good, I expected them to be off as based on my mpg my car runs rich.
I also cleaned my AEM dryflow filter as it badly needed to be cleaned, in the process though some of the red dye leeched out.
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
While changing sparks and coils I noticed some oil in the cylinders from slow leaks and I knew my valve cover and upper timing cover both had slow leaks so I decided to address both of them.
Job ended up being much more of a pain then it should have been but still was fairly easy.
Been 2 days and so far no leaks, I used permatex anaerobic gasket maker instead of the OEM stuff for resealing the valve cover
Job ended up being much more of a pain then it should have been but still was fairly easy.
Been 2 days and so far no leaks, I used permatex anaerobic gasket maker instead of the OEM stuff for resealing the valve cover
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
Over last month, I rewired my subwoofer to be placed behind drivers seat instead of in hatch as hatch gets used often and it was always in way. I swapped out the review camera that was mounted in the plate light slot to one of better quality mounted directly to bumper. Oil change occurred and am waiting on an oil analysis. New gasket and bolts on the downpipe and new longer Audi coupler to connect downpipe to catback that hopefully will prevent exhaust leak. JDM sport FMIC was mounted, no bumper modifications were needed but FMIC and bumper touch in various spots. Installed LED sequential mirror signal indicators and polished the mirror caps as water stains had accumulated. Also repainted hood vent inserts as previous black paint was fading.
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
End of March I got a stuck injector leading to multiple misfires and disabling of a cylinder.
Stuck Injector Spark:
Normal Spark:
Ended up replacing all injector with new Bosch ones along with new seals.
Old injectors:
Also did a impromptu carbon cleaning as even though I did one less than 20K ago there was new big deposits.
Stuck Injector Spark:
Normal Spark:
Ended up replacing all injector with new Bosch ones along with new seals.
Old injectors:
Also did a impromptu carbon cleaning as even though I did one less than 20K ago there was new big deposits.
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
Over the weekend I replaced my front door speakers with some kicker 6.5" SC.
Im running these off an aftermarket android headunit and was just looking for a decent improvement over stock ones without having to run an amp.
Removing the old speakers where a pain in the ass, the rivets had two layers of metal, and while the first layer was easy to drill off the second layer was much harder to get.
Ended up having to pry the corners of each then drill it through the speaker mount.
Replaced them with some nice riv nuts
Ended up buying a small wire adapter so I didnt have to deal with any rewiring or soldering.
Used a speaker spacer for a nissan teana (whatever that is) and just cut off the extra tabs and made the speaker holes wider so i can run a bolt all the way through.
The ones I had originally bought that were for mk6 golfs/gtis where not in fact for mk6 golfs and gtis...
Im running these off an aftermarket android headunit and was just looking for a decent improvement over stock ones without having to run an amp.
Removing the old speakers where a pain in the ass, the rivets had two layers of metal, and while the first layer was easy to drill off the second layer was much harder to get.
Ended up having to pry the corners of each then drill it through the speaker mount.
Replaced them with some nice riv nuts
Ended up buying a small wire adapter so I didnt have to deal with any rewiring or soldering.
Used a speaker spacer for a nissan teana (whatever that is) and just cut off the extra tabs and made the speaker holes wider so i can run a bolt all the way through.
The ones I had originally bought that were for mk6 golfs/gtis where not in fact for mk6 golfs and gtis...
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
Also finally connected my FMIC thats been mounted for a month to my actual charge pipes.
In addition to replacing the pancake pipes with metal ones.
The discharge pip interestingly rotates the "MAP" sensor and only mounts at a single point while the oem one mounts at 2 points.
Overall make the pipe less secure but seemed fine.
The first pipe went smoothly and I was able to line up both holes which I know some people have had trouble with that in the past.
It probably helped a bit that i have a turbo muffler delete and coupler.
Connecting the intercoolers together went smoothly too, the adapters seemed properly made and I used wormgear bands all around instead of the ones that came with the kit.
A decent amount of cutting was needed on the silicone pipe and I bent up the horns to move them out of the way.
The discharge pipe was much more difficult.
First i had to bend the one mounting point it had because the pipe was basically pointing into the engine instead of towards the fender.
Nothing the 4 wrench method couldnt solve easily.
Next the MAP sensor location was rotated (which is odd but probably unimportant) and tapped for an unknown screw type.
Like I literally tried every metric and standard screw I owned and nothing fit and I didnt have my taps to rethread it so I just showed whatever screws gave me enough bite on the first few threads and hoped for the best.
The adapter on this side wasnt as good as the other one and needed a few modifications.
first the notch was too big and needed to be dremeled down
Second I needed to dremel down some of the inner edge to get it to fit the intercooler.
After a bit of trying to finese it i just grabbed a pair of pliers and started pressings the piece into place.
Feel sorry for whoever tries to remove that coupler in the future aha.
And finally the last silicone pipe was a pain as well. the lack of space and the need to cut off excessive length made a 10 minute job into a 45 minute one.
used some oil as lubed which really helped in this section.
Finnnnalllly mounted:
Did some hard pulls and everything seems solid not any noticeable leaks and no adapters popping out of place.
In addition to replacing the pancake pipes with metal ones.
The discharge pip interestingly rotates the "MAP" sensor and only mounts at a single point while the oem one mounts at 2 points.
Overall make the pipe less secure but seemed fine.
The first pipe went smoothly and I was able to line up both holes which I know some people have had trouble with that in the past.
It probably helped a bit that i have a turbo muffler delete and coupler.
Connecting the intercoolers together went smoothly too, the adapters seemed properly made and I used wormgear bands all around instead of the ones that came with the kit.
A decent amount of cutting was needed on the silicone pipe and I bent up the horns to move them out of the way.
The discharge pipe was much more difficult.
First i had to bend the one mounting point it had because the pipe was basically pointing into the engine instead of towards the fender.
Nothing the 4 wrench method couldnt solve easily.
Next the MAP sensor location was rotated (which is odd but probably unimportant) and tapped for an unknown screw type.
Like I literally tried every metric and standard screw I owned and nothing fit and I didnt have my taps to rethread it so I just showed whatever screws gave me enough bite on the first few threads and hoped for the best.
The adapter on this side wasnt as good as the other one and needed a few modifications.
first the notch was too big and needed to be dremeled down
Second I needed to dremel down some of the inner edge to get it to fit the intercooler.
After a bit of trying to finese it i just grabbed a pair of pliers and started pressings the piece into place.
Feel sorry for whoever tries to remove that coupler in the future aha.
And finally the last silicone pipe was a pain as well. the lack of space and the need to cut off excessive length made a 10 minute job into a 45 minute one.
used some oil as lubed which really helped in this section.
Finnnnalllly mounted:
Did some hard pulls and everything seems solid not any noticeable leaks and no adapters popping out of place.