zrickety
The Fixer
That's a cam cap for the driver side. You can likely reuse it. Or you can order a new one, but they are usually listed under the older FSI engines for some reason. I can confirm it is the same part.
6
Rebuilding a 2.0 TSI after timing failure at 173k *ON A BUDGET* (less than $1k spent) - And Then Balance Shafts 2 Years Later
- Thread starter zrickety
- Start date
slag
Passed Driver's Ed
Bottom metal cover arrived today. Feels thicker than the one that was on there and its a FEBI one. Waiting on the top chain, valves, valve guide seals, water pump, head gasket kit, metal water pump union, used AC compressor from ebay and a few other things I'm forgetting right now.
slag
Passed Driver's Ed
Got busy and kind of put this project on the back burner. I'm picking it back up now and hope to be done this week. Got the new valves installed in the head, lapped them, and got all the timing components installed along with the head, camshafts, and cam cover. Also got the new water pump installed as well. I just need to bolt the lower and upper timing covers in place and start hooking up all the intake, cooling, electrical, and turbo connections and then change the oil, fill the coolant, and see if and how she runs. I did clean out the spool valve really well so I hope its good enough to idle well. I'm nervous, but in a giddy, good sort of way. I'm ready to get it out of the garage, so I hope she's a good runner.
slag
Passed Driver's Ed
Update! She's Alive!! Runs great so far, but haven't taken it on any long runs yet for a couple reasons. 1. After sitting for a few months, the brakes were all rusty, so I took all the rotors off, cleaned them up well and used a needle descaler to get all the rust off the rotors, then cleaned the calipers and caliper housings, and reassembled with new pads all the way around. While I had the back passenger side off, I noticed the rear passenger tire had a lot of flat spots, some down to the cords. Closer inspection revealed a bad shock and also a spring that was broken at both the top and bottom. So...., ordered a used spring from ebay, and new shocks locally. Replaced one shock so far (the rear passenger one), and the spring will be here in the next few days. Also ordered a new set of tires for the rear as the fronts looked brand new. After I replace the other rear shock and get the tires mounted and balanced, I'm going to get it on the lift at the local filling station where my son works and inspect the rest of the car's undercarriage. Still need to fix the AC compressor, but I think this will do it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-VW-Jet...rentrq:0d4dc9071750a9cd5d1a4517ffdb0190|iid:1
New keys,, I'd like to get a spare key for both my 2007 and 2009 GTIs. Where's the best place to do so? Also, I have one bracket left that I can't figure out where it goes. I'll post a picture here later to see if you guys can help identify the location.
New keys,, I'd like to get a spare key for both my 2007 and 2009 GTIs. Where's the best place to do so? Also, I have one bracket left that I can't figure out where it goes. I'll post a picture here later to see if you guys can help identify the location.
slag
Passed Driver's Ed
This is such a common thing to happen it appears. After doing one, I think I could get my time down to a couple days of disassembly, reassembly, and buttoning everything up. A local ad in the facebook marketplace had a 2012 A4 with the same issue. I hesitated, but should have jumped on it. Do we know if the updated audi tensioner is the final revision yet, or have people had problems with it also?
zrickety
The Fixer
I've heard the latest revision is fairly bulletproof. OEM versions anyway. There are aftermarket knockoffs I would avoid.
As far as keys, you'll need a dealer or maybe a really good locksmith that can do the MKV. I paid about $100 for a non-remote standard key at the dealer.
slag
Passed Driver's Ed
I was reading up on the immobilizer programming. Looks like I need to hook up the vcds to the car to see if I have the immobilizer 4 with challenger or adaptation. If its the first, I can buy a blank and remote relatively cheaply, get it cut, and program it through the VCDS connection. Otherwise, I will need to go through a 3rd party or dealer to get it done. I think its worth having at least one spare per vehicle though.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/inde...r_have_and_which_Procedures_are_applicable.3F
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/inde...r_have_and_which_Procedures_are_applicable.3F
slag
Passed Driver's Ed
Having a couple codes pop up. P0171 lean and p2015. Previous owner said he didn't have a p2015 code before so I have to assume I've done something wrong. P2015 is the intake manifold flapper and I can actuate it manually so I know it works, so.. I wonder if the lean code means I have a hose on wrong or something that could also affect the intake manifold.
Joe_Mama
Autocross Champion
You really don't know if the manifold works properly though. It fails in half a dozen ways, the actuator arm is just 1.
Very easy to pinch the gasket when putting the manifold on or forget to hook up one of the vacuum lines or one of the flappers inside is fucked or.... (Insert more failure points here)
If it isn't the updated manifold you should start there
Very easy to pinch the gasket when putting the manifold on or forget to hook up one of the vacuum lines or one of the flappers inside is fucked or.... (Insert more failure points here)
If it isn't the updated manifold you should start there