Rebuilding a 2.0 TSI after timing failure at 173k *ON A BUDGET* (less than $1k spent) - And Then Balance Shafts 2 Years Later

[zrickety]

Thanks guys. If you go 'by the book,' VW would have you throw the head away. I've got $400 in new parts and machine work and it's ready to go back in. Shopdap.com will sell you a reman head, timing kit and gaskets for this job...about $2500 ($600 back on core charge).
I'm not worried about the injectors, but I do have the seal kit if I need it. Like I said, I've done 2 other manifolds and never needed them. They've been sitting in the boxes about 5 years.

 

[qwop]

Nice! Looks like you just have to put it all together now. Glad to see these kind of repairs finally on the forum.

My method of decking a head is gluing sand paper onto a straight granite slab and dragging the head along that. In my uninformed opinion internal combustion engines are technology that's over 100 years old and people have been repairing and slapping them together for just as long. VW 2.0 tsi is just another mass produced economy engine. Hell im putting together a Porsche boxster engine right now and that's not rocket science either; Porsche just likes to make a million different specialty tools.

 

[zrickety]

I'm working on the car. ARP studs in, head is on. There is a 'coolant outlet flange' on the driver side where the plastic basically disintegrated.
Part number 06J121132G
I missed this earlier, part of the plastic stayed in the head with the o-ring. So add another $19 to the total...($960)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-engine-coolant-outlet-flange-vag-06j121132g

 

[zrickety]

We've got a cold snap here, so I'm in a holding pattern with the car. I have a few tips if anyone attempts this repair.
-Don't pull the head with the cams and exhaust manifold on it, it's too heavy for one person. Disassemble more. The turbo has 3 lines attached to the block, start at the bottom and work your way up.
-The Bentley manual says to never loosen the bottom exhaust manifold nuts. Of course I read this after I had already loosened everything. The bottom plates locate the manifold, so I spent some time with a mirror lining up the top stud markings, to tighten the bottom.
-Your head gasket set will not include the banjo bolt sealing washers for the turbo. About $1 each from your dealer. I got a 470 piece kit on Amazon that covers these, oil plugs, transmissions, etc.
-Assembly lube for the lifters and cams. I didn't include this in my total, fairly cheap, available locally.
That's all I've got for now. I added the part number for the flange in the previous post.

 

[zrickety]

Back at it. Some of the rocker rollers have a small indentation at the outside edge from the bent valves...a little odd as they usually ride in the middle. I don't think it will be an issue, but I want to document it as something to look for. I came across another timing pic that includes some torque specs, however they are in Nm.

And here is a rundown of the assembly process:
Installation

• Ensure crankshaft at TDC on No.1 cylinder.
• Flat section on crankshaft must be in horizontal position 30.
• Ensure camshaft adjuster holding tool correctly fitted 24.
• Ensure camshaft sprocket holding tool correctly fitted 26.
• Mark 12 o'clock position on cylinder block 30.
• Mark tooth on crankshaft sprocket that aligns with mark on rear of crankshaft sprocket 31.
• Ensure timing marks of balancer shaft gears aligned 32.
• Ensure timing mark on each balancer shaft sprocket positioned as shown 33.
• Install balancer shaft chain.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain links aligned with timing mark on each balancer shaft sprocket 33.
• Install balancer shaft upper chain guide.
• Place timing chain on ends of camshafts as shown 28.
• Install crankshaft sprocket and oil pump chain as an assembly.
• Ensure timing mark on crankshaft sprocket aligned with timing mark on cylinder block 34.
• Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool 8.
• Tighten bolt of crankshaft sprocket holding tool to secure crankshaft sprocket to crankshaft 7.
• Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter 9.
• Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut 10. Tighten crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut finger tight.
• Fit balancer shaft chain to crankshaft sprocket.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on crankshaft sprocket 35.
• Install balancer shaft lower chain guide and tensioner rail.
• Install balancer shaft chain tensioner 29.
• Install timing chain to camshaft adjuster and camshaft sprocket.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on camshaft sprocket 2.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on camshaft adjuster 3.
• Fit timing chain to crankshaft sprocket.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on crankshaft sprocket 36.
• Fit timing chain guides.
• Hold exhaust camshaft with spanner on hexagon behind sprocket 27.
• Remove camshaft sprocket holding tool 26.
• Rotate exhaust camshaft anti-clockwise using spanner on hexagon until timing chain in contact with upper chain guide.
• Continue to hold exhaust camshaft.
• Install timing chain tensioner and tensioner rail.
• If necessary, turn inlet camshaft anti-clockwise using spanner on hexagon behind camshaft adjuster, until camshaft adjuster holding tool can be removed 24 & 25.
• Remove tensioner locking tool or pin to release timing chain tensioner plunger 20 or 23.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on camshaft sprocket 2.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on camshaft adjuster 3.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on crankshaft sprocket 36.
• Install oil pump chain tensioner 14.
• Remove oil pump chain tensioner locking pin 16.
• Fit camshaft support bracket 13.
• Install inlet camshaft adjuster control valve (LH thread) 11. Tightening torque: 35 Nm.
• Install exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt and washer 12.
• Turn crankshaft 2 turns clockwise to TDC on No.1 cylinder. Use dial gauge.
• Install lower timing chain cover.
• Install crankshaft pulley as follows:
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut 10.
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter 9.
  • Ensure plain segment on crankshaft sprocket at 12 o'clock position 37.
  • Install crankshaft pulley.
  • Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter 9.
    Note: Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter with hexagon facing crankshaft sprocket.
  • Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut 10. Tighten crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut finger tight.
  • Install crankshaft pulley holding tool 4.
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut 10.
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter 9.
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool 8.
  • Fit new crankshaft pulley bolt. Finger tighten bolt.
  • Remove crankshaft pulley holding tool 4.
  • Tighten crankshaft pulley bolt to 150 Nm + 90 °.
• Checking valve timing:
  • Ensure engine at TDC on No.1 cylinder. Use dial gauge.
  • Ensure crankshaft pulley timing mark aligned with timing mark on chain cover 1.
  • Ensure timing mark on camshaft sprocket positioned as shown 2.
  • Ensure timing mark on camshaft adjuster positioned as shown 3.
  • Check measurement between outer edge of raised cast section on upper chain guide and timing mark on inlet camshaft adjuster is 61 - 64 mm 38 & 39.
    Note: If measurement outside tolerance, repeat timing chain installation procedure.
  • Check measurement between inlet camshaft adjuster timing mark and exhaust camshaft sprocket timing mark is 124 - 126 mm 40.
    Note: If measurement outside tolerance, repeat timing chain installation procedure.

 

[zrickety]

Considering I've only worked on this about 4 weekends with interruptions, I've made good progress. Got the new intake manifold on tonight before I ran out of light. All that's left is the boost piping and new fluids.
Pics and results later this week...

 

[zrickety]

Great success! I've officially been driving the car for 2 days. I had a hiccup with the clip on the wastegate falling off, but that's fixed. No oil leaks, great power. No CEL!
I'll update this thread over the long term for reliability purposes.

 

[Tony48]

Great success! I've officially been driving the car for 2 days. I had a hiccup with the clip on the wastegate falling off, but that's fixed. No oil leaks, great power. No CEL!
I'll update this thread over the long term for reliability purposes.View attachment 164274

Congrats on the successful repair and keeping a GTI from entering a premature grave. I appreciate your photos and documentation as well as all the comments provided by others.

 

[zrickety]

Thanks Tony!

 

[zrickety]

 

[manol]

What in god's name intake is that?

 

[zrickety]

It's a mostly stock intake with heat wrap. The box is a K&N 57i, it has a velocity stack and large cone filter inside. I know it's not much to look at, but this car pulls as hard as the K04 I had.

I took a picture of the condition of the rails when I was putting it back together...I wanted to show you guys there was no reason to replace them. For the cover bolts, I added blue loctite and put them back in. All hardware was reused except the head bolts.

 

[zrickety]

I've got almost 1000 miles on it since the rebuild. Still fast, still strong. I did have a MAF failure, unrelated. $90 and it's back in business. Also grabbed a great deal on some RPF1 with sticky tires.

 

[zrickety]

I'd like to report that the car is running better than ever. Super strong, I added a K-tuned velocity stack intake mated to a USP motorsports stage 2 pipe. Custom VW center caps on the wheels, android head unit. It's almost time for a 3k oil change.

Edit- Jay is a standup dude.
Got an R56 Mini Cooper S project that will become my track day car.

 

[jay745]

I'd like to report that the car is running better than ever. Super strong, I added a K-tuned velocity stack intake mated to a USP motorsports stage 2 pipe. Custom VW center caps on the wheels, android head unit. It's almost time for a 3k oil change.
I'll check back from time to time, but because @jay745 is a censorship moderator dick, I'll be elsewhere.
Got an R56 Mini Cooper S project that will become my track day car.
View attachment 172131
View attachment 172132

You still bitching that I blocked you from a thread that you were derailing and stirring shit in? Would you prefer to just get banned entirely? Let me know, dick.