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Sean's Shadow Blue GTI

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Just realized this section would be more fitting for a built thread than the technical section so i'm reposting here.

I decided to document the build of my 2011 GTI. I bought it bone stock besides a subwoofer with 90k miles. I'll update the main post as I do stuff, although it will be a rather long build since I don't have the biggest budget at the moment.

Engine:
42dd 3" Turboback exhaust no cat no resonator
Custom downpipe
Turbosmart Plumb Back DV
Unitronic DV Relocate
Custom Intake
IE Intercooler
Cobb Accessport
Stratified Custom Tune
R8 Red top coil packs
VWR Motor Mounts
iAbed Billet RMS OEM RMS (Have the iAbed as a backup if this leaks)
iAbed Oil Sensor Adapter (Lets me run multiple oil sensors off the one OEM port)
Oil Temp/Pressure sensors
Unknown Brand Turbo Outlet Pipe Custom made by StayGold Performance
CTS Turbo Muffler Delete Removed with stock turbo
Fluidampr Crank Pulley
Latest Revision Vaico PCV 034 Motorsports catch can
RKX Tech PCV Diaphragm
DIY Battery relocate to trunk
A/C Delete (Removed lines, compressor, and condenser)
A/C Compressor Dummy Pulley
IE 83mm Pistons
Block bored to 83mm
IE Rifle Drilled Rods
ARP Head stud kit
iAbed Baffled Oil Pan
Garret G25-660 .72 AR
Tial MVS wastegate with dump tube (1 Bar spring pressure at the moment)
Custom Exhaust Manifold (StayGold Performance in Deep River, for any of you CT folks)
Rein Aluminum Waterpump
Aluminum Waterpump Union


Fueling
Torqbyte PM-4
Stratified Aux Fueling Kit
Nostrum Big Bore HPFP
MK7 Golf R Injectors
Custom LPFP Setup (Walbro 450LPH, Hydramat)

Suspension/Handling:
Brembo 18z Brake Kit 6 Piston Front 4 Piston Rear w/ MKV R32 Parking Brake Caliper Fuck a parking brake.
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
TTRS Master Cylinder
TyrolSport Master Cylinder Brace

TyrolSport Front Subframe Deadset Kit
TyrolSport Rear Subframe Deadset Kit
YCW Aeris Series Coilovers Ohlins Road and Track Coilovers
Ground Control Camber Plates
YCW Front Endlinks
H&R 26mm Front Swaybar (Soft Setting)
H&R 24mm Rear Swaybar (Firm Setting)
034 Motosport Adjustable Rear Endlinks
Powerflex Black Series ALK
Powerflex Black Series Front LCA Bushings
Passat Aluminum Control Arms
KMD Tuning Front Subframe Brace Removed for turbo oil drain fitment
ECS Tuning Rear Hatch Stress Bar

Transmission:
DieselGeek Sigma Six Short Shifter
42DD Solid Shifter Bracket Bushings
ECS Dogbone Mount
HPA 75a Red Puck
Delay Valve Deletes (Bleeder block and near Master Cylinder)
Stainless Steel Clutch Line
SouthBend Stage 2 Endurance (Rebuilt by southbend during engine rebuild)
Peloquin LSD
Steel Shift Forks with Brass Inserts 1-4

Exterior:
DeAutoKey LED Color Changing Foglights
Uro Tuning rear wiper delete
Osram Xenarc Black Edition Headlights
Depo Dark Cherry Tails w/ rear fog
Motegi Racing MR133 18x8.5et45 Rotiform Six 18x8.5et45
Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s 255/35/R18 Hankook V12 255/35/R18
Stud Conversion Removed to fit centercap for the new wheels
Gloss Black Rear Valance
Shadow Blue OEM Front Lip

Interior:
JL Audio 10w6v2-D4 Removed for performance
Alpine MWP-M500 Amp Removed for performance
Rear Seat Delete (No kit to replace it, might make one myself)
DeAutoKey Interior LED kit with red Footwells
Soundaktor Delete
Osir dual gauge pod with oil temp/pressure gauges


Pretty much the same as I bought it on the exterior besides the tails and slightly bigger exhaust tips.




As it sits now:
 
Last edited:

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Just did a slight shave of the rear end. I'll post a better picture after hopefully washing it this weekend. I love the symmetrical look though without the wiper or GTI badge.

 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Just got my IE intake yesterday and got it put in. I replaced the Cobb one with it because the Cobb intake wasn't compatible with the eventual Unitronic DV relocate i'm gonna be getting, also a lot more noises from this intake than the Cobb one which I like. Really happy with the quality of the intake and the install wasn't too bad, although there were some small clearance issues near the turbo inlet with the stage 2 pipe and some metal lines.

Here's a pic of it in my filthy engine bay:


As a bonus, my gf's co-worker stopped by in this with a whopping 60 miles on it:
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Thinking of going bigger than K04 down the line?

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk

I've got some rather large plans down the line, not totally sure on the specifics yet but definitely BT.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
After about a month of waiting, my headlights finally showed up from Germany. Installation wasn't too bad, only hard part was getting the tabs on the bottom of the lights to get into the channels on the car due to the ballasts. Love the way they look and while they were expensive, I think they are definitely worth it.

Parking Lights:


Low Beams:


DRLs:

 

KITEWAGON

Passed Driver's Ed
After about a month of waiting, my headlights finally showed up from Germany. Installation wasn't too bad, only hard part was getting the tabs on the bottom of the lights to get into the channels on the car due to the ballasts. Love the way they look and while they were expensive, I think they are definitely worth it.

Parking Lights:


Low Beams:


DRLs:


Awesome. I am definitely considering these lights. Please keep us updated on how you like them after using them. I keep waffling between these and the OEM HID retro-fit. My feeling is that the lights are probably higher quality with OEM, but the installation seems way more complicated. I like that these are made to be plug and play.

Where did you purchase from and how much if you don't mind me asking?
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Awesome. I am definitely considering these lights. Please keep us updated on how you like them after using them. I keep waffling between these and the OEM HID retro-fit. My feeling is that the lights are probably higher quality with OEM, but the installation seems way more complicated. I like that these are made to be plug and play.

Where did you purchase from and how much if you don't mind me asking?

Yea, install was a breeze pretty much. Just the OEM plugs then one wire from each light going to the positive terminal to the battery. I got them during a special offer from a german company called MyTuning24 for $880 shipped. I have yet to use them at night but I think they will have good output, definitely better than the stock halogens.
 

KITEWAGON

Passed Driver's Ed
Yea, install was a breeze pretty much. Just the OEM plugs then one wire from each light going to the positive terminal to the battery. I got them during a special offer from a german company called MyTuning24 for $880 shipped. I have yet to use them at night but I think they will have good output, definitely better than the stock halogens.

Thanks. That kind of deal is what I need to push me off the fence. I think I'd pull the trigger and try them out for that price. Right now they are listed on that site at 800 euro which is like $935, plus whatever shipping costs.

I'll definitely stay tuned to hear how you like them. I've heard good things. The main negative has been that some report that they shake somewhat when going over bumps...and our roads are not very good around here. Plus at 25W vs. 35W for OEMs they won't be as bright, but probably good enough and a huge upgrade over halogen. Plus the DRL's really look great on this car. I like that they have an OEM style look...upgrading the MK6 to a MK7.5.

An no module changes, wiring, coding, etc is a huge plus. I've wasted way too much time on the interwebs just trying to figure out what I need for an OEM retrofit.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Thanks. That kind of deal is what I need to push me off the fence. I think I'd pull the trigger and try them out for that price. Right now they are listed on that site at 800 euro which is like $935, plus whatever shipping costs.

I'll definitely stay tuned to hear how you like them. I've heard good things. The main negative has been that some report that they shake somewhat when going over bumps...and our roads are not very good around here. Plus at 25W vs. 35W for OEMs they won't be as bright, but probably good enough and a huge upgrade over halogen. Plus the DRL's really look great on this car. I like that they have an OEM style look...upgrading the MK6 to a MK7.5.

An no module changes, wiring, coding, etc is a huge plus. I've wasted way too much time on the interwebs just trying to figure out what I need for an OEM retrofit.

I'm gonna try to get some pics of the output tonight or tomorrow and post them up for a side by side with my halogens. If I didn't get this deal on them I wouldn't have gotten them and was just gonna go with OEM bi-xenons, would take a bit more effort but they still look great.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Just installed the rear subframe deadset kit from TyrolSport. Overall a really easy install, only hold up was snapping a cheap harbor freight extension. Could definitely tell the subframe wasn't in the same position once the collars were installed. Gonna try and get the front one in next weekend so i'm ready for an alignment once my wheels come in.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
Cool car...best color, 2 door, manual, nice mods. Keep it up!
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Thanks, clutch and lsd going in hopefully beginning of June then gonna start working towards stage 2, only being held back by money lol.
Cool car...best color, 2 door, manual, nice mods. Keep it up!

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Just installed the front deadset kit from TyrolSport. Install went really smoothly and only took about an hour. Steering wheel shifted about 2 inches from its previous position so i'll definitely need an alignment, i'm gonna wait until I get my new wheels on though which should hopefully be the next week or two unless the shipping date gets pushed off again.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Deleted the restrictor inside the OEM bleeder block yesterday. Definitely gives the clutch a better feel and makes it easier to shift quickly and smoothly. Removing the bleeder block takes about 30 seconds, maybe more depending on if you have to remove your intake to get to it, but I didn't. Make sure you have something to catch/wipe up the fluid that is going to come out of the clutch line. Punching out the restrictor took a while since it's really hard to see in there, I ended up using a headlamp which helped a lot to see what I was doing. Also helps to make sure you have enough brake fluid in the reservoir. Tried for about 15 minutes to bleed the clutch to no avail. Topped off the reservoir and then it took about 3 minutes to get it bled and driving again. Definitely worth the time it took to do.
 
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