What did you do to your MK6 today?

[Knotical]

You learn something new every day. I'll be honest, I'd probably have ripped the whole car apart looking for that vacuum leak before I ever considered the evap system. I had no idea it draws in fresh air while the engine is running

 

[Alpinee30]

Yeah and what’s frustrating about that is the hose that’s basically glued on that, as far as I can tell, can’t be dealt with without pulling the intake manifold.

I found a tip that I can just cut the line and patch in a new line on the new valve, which I believe I’ll be doing.

Also wtf why am I having all of these issues all at the same time?

Good news is that after banging in the spark plug with the .70 gap the car stopped misfiring. I’m sure it’ll drive great when I get the new plugs in.

Yeah I'm not so worried about the hose to valve connection, that seems like a good hose clamp would work. For the hose butt joint I thought I'd use a lot of overlap and smear some variation of JB Weld on the inner tube before I insert it. I can't imagine an inch of overlap with an epoxy/resin seal would be problematic.

The rev hang is gone now, it's back to normal idle with no surging. So I guess yanking on the hoses and unplugging and plugging the thing back in did something. I still ordered a new valve though.

You Change one with patience and just taking the throttle body off only and that's Thats no challenge. It's one fastener and the old clips don't matter.

 

[MrFancypants]

You learn something new every day. I'll be honest, I'd probably have ripped the whole car apart looking for that vacuum leak before I ever considered the evap system. I had no idea it draws in fresh air while the engine is running

yeah, it kind of confirms the thought I had that the idle thing was mechanical. I guess my weird idle behavior was the valve sticking open and then slamming shut. I also think this valve is doing more than venting fuel vapors... it seems to control how the revs fall to idle. Like if you're driving and you come to a stop the revs look like they land on a pillow and then fall to idle, I bet the ECU is modulating that valve to do that. I also think that maybe this valve is the source of rev hang in the 1->2 shift.

I'm guessing my car is the reason why mechanics can hate customers. If I weren't able to trouble shoot this and I knew nothing about cars I'd have continued to think that the problem was caused by poor workmanship on the shop's part. Instead it's been a really weird coincidence that it's gone the way it has.

 

[MrFancypants]

You Change one with patience and just taking the throttle body off only and that's Thats no challenge. It's one fastener and the old clips don't matter.

yeah unfortunately I don't think that's the case with mine. After trying to figure out what part I needed to buy I found that the part number on mine is different from the part number all the parts sites say should be on my car. Mine is a different style and the hose off the valve goes to a T, then splits off again to two different spots. All of the hoses on the T look like they're meant to be permanent connections, and the whole valve/hose assembly is secured by two different screws under the intake manifold. There may be a way to get at it if I remove the throttle body but I think I'm just going to do the cut and join thing and see how it goes.

The part number on the valve I have has a smaller wiring harness plug than the one that shows up as being what's supposed to be on my car and the part number correlates to a few other VAG products that aren't the mk6 GTI.

I'm just going to drive it and see what happens. If it starts acting up again I'll change the valve, if not I'll just assume that whatever was causing the valve to stick has worked its way out. I wonder if maybe there was some loose carbon in the system that got pushed into it or something.

 

[Alpinee30]

yeah unfortunately I don't think that's the case with mine. After trying to figure out what part I needed to buy I found that the part number on mine is different from the part number all the parts sites say should be on my car. Mine is a different style and the hose off the valve goes to a T, then splits off again to two different spots. All of the hoses on the T look like they're meant to be permanent connections, and the whole valve/hose assembly is secured by two different screws under the intake manifold. There may be a way to get at it if I remove the throttle body but I think I'm just going to do the cut and join thing and see how it goes.

The part number on the valve I have has a smaller wiring harness plug than the one that shows up as being what's supposed to be on my car and the part number correlates to a few other VAG products that aren't the mk6 GTI.

I'm just going to drive it and see what happens. If it starts acting up again I'll change the valve, if not I'll just assume that whatever was causing the valve to stick has worked its way out. I wonder if maybe there was some loose carbon in the system that got pushed into it or something.

It's the case with all of them sorry had to, it may just be one top bolt it's been I minuet since I did one. It's doable.

You can do a lot of work with the intake on. Hell, I changed the whole harness on the car with Just removing the throttle body.

You can test the N80 Valve with a Vacuum Pump if it holds Vacuum its fine. Also, you can open and close it with VCDS to see if it sticking.

 

[MrFancypants]

It's the case with all of them sorry had to, it may just be one top bolt it's been I minuet since I did one. It's doable.

You can do a lot of work with the intake on. Hell, I changed the whole harness on the car with Just removing the throttle body.

You can test the N80 Valve with a Vacuum Pump if it holds Vacuum its fine. Also, you can open and close it with VCDS to see if it sticking.

Hey thanks for the tips, I'll see about giving those a try... especially the VCDS test.

 

[Alpinee30]

Mk7 R injectors And Nostrum HPFP installed this morning. The Erling Turbo installation kit is missing the damn Crush washers for the cooling lines or id have the TTE450 in place Aswell.

Spent yesterday removing the broken driver's side manifold stud. It was already broken when I looked. Wast too bad thank Luckly they seem to be not torqued in place.

 

[Knotical]

Mk7 R injectors And Nostrum HPFP installed this morning. The Erling Turbo installation kit is missing the damn Crush washers for the cooling lines or id have the TTE450 in place Aswell.

Spent yesterday removing the broken driver's side manifold stud. It was already broken when I looked. Wast too bad thank Luckly they seem to be not torqued in place.

Yeah they got me with those washers too, ended up waiting almost a week for the damn things from my local dealer.

Which Nostrum pump did you go with? I want to run one when I go beyond the K04, so I'm really hoping they don't discontinue them. Might grab one in the spring even if I end up just sitting on it for a year or two.

 

[Alpinee30]

Yeah they got me with those washers too, ended up waiting almost a week for the damn things from my local dealer.

Which Nostrum pump did you go with? I want to run one when I go beyond the K04, so I'm really hoping they don't discontinue them. Might grab one in the spring even if I end up just sitting on it for a year or two.

I managed to Cross refence to a GM washer and get it done and running this afternoon. GM PN 11016289

I went with the STD bore kit. Purchased from Stratified He also is selling MK7R injectors Aswell.

 

[MrFancypants]

New plugs in today... the car is pleasant to drive again.

 

[MrFancypants]

The new purge valve is here… the plan is to use a short length of 11/32” inside diameter PCV emissions hose frok Autozone, super glue, and hose clamps. I’m going to brush on the glue, insert about 1” of old hose, and clamp it. The glue is rated for 200 F so it should hold up.

I’d be surprised if it doesn’t hold but if it doesn’t I’ll just pull the intake manifold and install a whole new assembly. I looked up how to pull only the throttle body and it actually looks like more work.

 

[MrFancypants]

Installed the new valve. Idle is back to the way it's supposed to be and smoothed out the engine a bit; I could feel that valve snapping open/closed while accelerating every now and then. I got about an inch and a half of overlap with the glue in addition to the hose clamp.

In the past couple of months the valves have been cleaned, new water pump, new alternator, new battery, new purge valve, new spark plugs, and new wiring harness connections for the coil packs. This car doesn't owe me much anymore but I'd really like a year without having to deal with anything else.

 

[miomiller]

In the past couple of months the valves have been cleaned,

How many miles were on the car since the last time the valves were cleaned?

 

[MrFancypants]

How many miles were on the car since the last time the valves were cleaned?

A little over 70k miles. I got them cleaned because I was convinced that they were the source of my stumbling and misfires. As it turned out the misfires were from a bad spark plug and maybe bad coil pack connections. I don’t regret getting them cleaned when I might have been able to go another year, but it could have become a problem pretty soon anyway.

The lesson I learned is that it doesn’t matter how new you think your spark plugs are, check them anyway. In my case I’m pretty sure I damaged one trying to gap it with a cheap disk tool (I bought a proper tool for the new plugs).

 

[miomiller]

The lesson I learned is that it doesn’t matter how new you think your spark plugs are, check them anyway.

Thanks for the response. I'm running NGK BKR8EIX plugs (APR tune with K04) and learned a long time ago about the need to pull plugs at regular intervals merely to check the gap. I have been surprised at how much the gap has fluctuated over time.