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Big Turbo Discussion Thread #2

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vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Cadubya said:
That's with it being removed and installed multiple times on multiple engines with a wife who might not be the best at using a clutch. It only slipped when cold too. I want to get dyno tuned though so I didn't want to risk it.
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The RSR is a beast. I'm still super happy with mine. I'm assuming removing and installing a bunch of times messed with the self adjuster which probably contributed to the slipping. Are you planning on going with their Hybrid disk now?





kern417 said:
i say put it as close to the turbo as your willing to deal with. i think fireballs was right behind his subframe
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Space is the issue. I don't want it any lower than the bottom of the car as I nail stuff with my subframe on occasion, so anything lower than that will definitely get ripped off. The cutout itself isn't that big, but the motor sticks out an extra 3-4 inches off the side.



Right behind the subframe will probably have the motor hanging 2" or so under the car. I'm probably going to end up putting it right above my UB brace, as there is some width room back there. I'm getting under it tonight to figure it all out.

Probably right here. You can see where the heat shield expands out and there is more room. That's the plan anyway.

*Pic stole from internet*
 
V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
I'm not sure you can set it up like that. It comes with a three position switch that returns to center. So you have to hold it one way to open it and then hold it the other way to close it. If you stop in the middle it will stop where you leave it. Not to mention electric cutouts take 4-5 seconds to fully open/close. If you want something that opens under boost you're better off buying a cheap eBay wastegate, welding it downstream in the exhaust, run a vacuum line to it and change the spring to whatever boost you want it to open at. A bunch of the LS swap guys do that.

Anyway, here's my switch. I plan on adding another switch and LED in this spot for the accusump I need to install.




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L

LAGP

Ready to race!
HYDE16 said:
I've been looking at a QTP cutout as well, with a three way master switch in the cabin. Switch position 1 = off
Switch position 2 = on / open
Switch position 3 = on / opens with boost switch

Excited for your findings.
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I've had better results with a vacuum operated cut out, I run it with an N75 valve a boost switch and on/off/on switch, for the combination that you just mentioned.

For me the benefits are, no electric motor to fail, it's compact, no leaks, and the operation is instantaneous.


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C

Chris659

Ready to race!
ArmaSpeed also has an option for a valve. It's vacuum or electronic I believe and has a module that ties into the OBD-II port. Has a wireless remote to be fully open/closed/ or rpm controlled. Also has an app to control it and reset engine codes

I'm not sure how much or anything but have been considering one for my car to see if I can restore low end power. I'm not BT but do run a p&p k04 and p&p hpa intake manifold. Between those two parts and the Fluidyne dampener I feel I've lost all my low end torque.

I am waiting on their variable speed intake system now so it'll then have a valve for intake and exhaust. When you do the intake system, the exhaust valve plugs into the same module to cut down on stuff you have to buy/install.

Hope this helps you guys!


Edit: have a brand new MKVI Golf R system here if anyone is interested. ArmaSpeed sent it by mistake and I have some time to sell it before I have to return it (they said that would be ok). Can sell it variable or non variable (read their site to see what it's all about). It's the matte cf version. Pm me if interested but very limited time as my system will be here in about a week or so and it's coming with a return call tag if I don't sell it by then...
 
V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Got halfway through welding this in last night and my welder ran out of gas. Just finished it up at work though. Not my best welding work as I ran a full pass with no gas wondering why it looked like shit and had to try and grind the junk weld back out, but either way it's solid and won't leak. Wiring is already ran, just have to throw it back in when I get home!




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Cadubya

Cadubya

Autocross Newbie
*****2.0t said:
The RSR is a beast. I'm still super happy with mine. I'm assuming removing and installing a bunch of times messed with the self adjuster which probably contributed to the slipping. Are you planning on going with their Hybrid disk now?
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Yup. Breaking it in now ;)
 
jettaglis

jettaglis

Go Kart Champion
I've installed 3 or 4 so far "rsr" clutches lately on stage 1+/2 mk7 golf r's, just using the ttrs pressure plate and the sachs disc. It does take some break in time due to some automatic adjustment. Customers have been happy with the outcome.
 
ZiggyMKVI

ZiggyMKVI

Ready to race!
*****2.0t said:
Got halfway through welding this in last night and my welder ran out of gas. Just finished it up at work though. Not my best welding work as I ran a full pass with no gas wondering why it looked like shit and had to try and grind the junk weld back out, but either way it's solid and won't leak. Wiring is already ran, just have to throw it back in when I get home!




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:thumbup: VIDEO when done please
 
V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
apa11393 said:
Haha I had one of these too. Loved it. Hearing the turbo spool through the exhaust is so damn cool.
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Hell yea, I love the spool noises!

So I got a pull down the highway with it open this morning. It sounds awesome. For anyone wanting to see my crappy 10 second video, search nick0188 on instagram.
 
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