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Big Turbo Discussion Thread
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greasyginzo
Go Kart Champion
I like how the new owners of APR decided that raising the prices is the way to fix the company
It never worked. Came back from APR not working.
Seems like EVERYTHING either came back from APR either broke or not working. :laugh:
Grandturismo
Ready to race!
I've had the APR OPS now for about a year. The solenoid gave me a few issues early on but it's working well now (touch wood)
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Lol just about. They were also nice enough to fuck up the front bumper tabs on the r bumper that was put on a week before going down. Decided to just take the ops out while replacing those supports.
HYDE161
Go Kart Champion
I would gladly buy a kit from you.
it's the same thing i'm talking about on the k04 facebook group. they'll keep trying to pitch their system but it works without the controller on every other car i've seen. most of the racecar builds i've found run it more as a safety than anything, and that's what it does. save you in a pinch. it's not designed to be a source of constant oil. that's what the baffling (or lack therof) in the pan is for. if anything, adding another `1/2 qt of oil will help more than a controller. so it will be activated less often.
greasyginzo
Go Kart Champion
Ryan,
All you need is an Accusump, adaptor, a valve and some lines. Accusump has different valves for different needs or wants.
All you need is an Accusump, adaptor, a valve and some lines. Accusump has different valves for different needs or wants.
HYDE161
Go Kart Champion
See the discussion on the K04 FB page.
i'll have to respond when i get home. but fact of the matter is, the drop in pressure is instant, not a slow drop. With the accusump, if it drops below idle pressure then it will activate. even if the turn is long enough that the pump pushes out all of it's oil, the pressure will slowly drop and you'll have enough time to stop the car and shut her down. that's how the system is designed to work, and has worked for plenty. but it's up to the user whether they want a manual switch or an electronic switch connected to the ignition.
I think Arin and Tom are trying to imply that your oil pressure could hover around 30psi in a high speed turn, but I don't see that being the case. If you starve the oil pickup, it'll drop to 0. The only concern with a lower pressure threshold is if the accumulator can react fast enough, and countless times it has proven that it has.
Heres another victory story. I'm still looking for horror stories. It's not like our car is the only one that runs higher pressures at higher rpm. If their concern was viable imo, these would allow failures everywhere.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=659.msg7051#msg7051
Heres another victory story. I'm still looking for horror stories. It's not like our car is the only one that runs higher pressures at higher rpm. If their concern was viable imo, these would allow failures everywhere.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=659.msg7051#msg7051
Arin@APR
GOLFMK7 Official Sponsor
I think you’re confusing me with someone else. I haven’t implied anything; just shared experiences and data we have.
In regards to pressure, the data I have shared is of a continuous lap around Mid-Ohio with our MK6 GTI and GLI racecars. The Y-axis is oil pressure and the x-axis is second, which also represents roughly 1 lap around the entire track. With the OPS system turned off (which, was via a manual switch when first implemented on the race car, and was mounted in the passenger seat area too) pressure dropped as low as 8 PSI. This is well below the acceptable range under load and ultimately resulted in an engine failure.
The reason the OPS was not activated was because the driver forgot to turn it on. This happened quite a bit, which is why we new it needed to be automated.
Without the controller, the driver has to manually flip on a switch to activate the system. As we mentioned before, the drivers did not always remember to do this, even though they are professionals, so we felt our customers would need something automatic as well.
If you simply have the system activated every time there’s power (so no controller), it will dump 2 quarts of oil into the system at idle, or when the key is turned on and the engines is off. This is because even with the system operating off of low oil pressure (below the recommended operating condition of ~30 PSI), at idle, and with the engine off, key on, the system would be active as pressure would be below this point. The extra 2 quarts, or roughly 40% more oil would overfill the system. Overfilling can be hazardous for the engine’s health.
The can controller handles enabling the system under the correct operating conditions. This prevents overfilling, turning on when it shouldn’t, and makes the system hands free.
Baffling doesn’t fix the issue. The issue is the oil cannot return to the oil pan quick enough during high G sweeping turns. No amount of baffling or responsible overfilling helped, or rather, prevented engine failure. No swinging oil pickup arms, no widening of oil return passages, etc. We tried many different things. The OPS was the only solution that worked.
Last thoughts:
I do prefer you to purchase the APR system. However, I’m more concerned customers know of the issue so they don’t blow their engine on the track. If that means some will try to do it on their own, their way, then that’s fine by me. It’s a rather complicated system to do on your own, especially if want it to mount nicely in the engine bay, and operate in the manner in which we’ve specified with the controller. It’s not a simple walk in the park. If you don’t want to take that walk, we have a solution. :w00t:
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