I just installed Ed's non led Xenons. All is well, however I was surprised to see that I no longer have Daytime running lights. I also have a warning that pops up to check my DRL's along with a bulb out error when I start my car.
I am using Morimoto HID kit with standalone canbus harnesses installed. Do I have to code my car to get DRL's working again and to clear the bulb errors? I thought the can bus harnesses would take care of the bulb out errors.
I guess these lights aren't as "plug and play" as I thought they were.
looks like your UV coat is coming off from the inside.
PM Ed for a faster response.
I just installed Ed's non led Xenons. All is well, however I was surprised to see that I no longer have Daytime running lights. I also have a warning that pops up to check my DRL's along with a bulb out error when I start my car.
I am using Morimoto HID kit with standalone canbus harnesses installed. Do I have to code my car to get DRL's working again and to clear the bulb errors? I thought the can bus harnesses would take care of the bulb out errors.
I guess these lights aren't as "plug and play" as I thought they were.
You have the error because there is no bulb on the drl circuit. These headlights don't have drl wiring - the connector has no pin for connection #4.
You can code to set the parking light as your drl if you wish them to be your drls. You can also code to have your low beam as your drl, but that's silly (however it's how the mark 5 was). See my post above.
Yeah they are rambly.
Since you don't have rear led tail lights then you probably don't need to mess with byte 18. But may have to.
The LEDs are wired as the parking lights. There is no drl bulbs in the headlight and therefore no connection pin on the end of the cars drl circuit. Therefore we need to add the jumper wire between pins 4 and 10 in the cars harness to take the cars signal on the drl circuit through the jumper wire and onto the parking lights pin (the LEDs). That should get you the LEDs coming on when the switch is off.
But the LEDs are a lower resistance of a normal bulb so you need to code the car to accept that the lights in the drl circuit are LEDs so it won't put a bulb out error.
Your byte 18 is probably coded to 03 - which will have LEDs as parking lights.
Try installing the jumper wire first and see if all works ok. It may well do.
If not then try coding.
I think you code (in 09 - cent cont) as follows:
- byte 15: check bit 6 (drl via separate lights active)
- byte 15: check bit 7 (give you control of drls via mfi)
- byte 24: check bit 7 (drl as position lights active)
- byte 27: check bit 2 (led drl installed - parking lights and drl)
Try that and see how it works. If not all ok then change byte 18 to 20.
Thank you very much for your help! Can you advise on whether or not I need a CANBUS or a Euroswitch?
I have Ed's Option 2, and they are peeling really bad. It looks bad enough I want to put my stock lights back on I am in the DC area, definitely not an extreme climate so that's not it. What are my options? I have a headlight restoration kit... is this worth a try? What are the effects if I polish, and essentially remove what's left of the clear coat... will that have a negative impact on the lights? I imagine I might get into a scenario where they fog up and I need to repolish every month w/o the clear coat.