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Big Turbo Discussion Thread #2

B

bigturbonyc

Ready to race!
s word said:
wasn't there a cheap clip (aftermarket) to hold it tight?
Click to expand...

Actually vw has a clip, its a stupid fucking clip and lists for 50 bux...if you complain about the rattle you get it installed...

you know how many turbos ive done with that clip installed, probably 75% of them. i dont understand some of this shit corporate decides, but its ALWAYS about money.
 
F

FriggenT1

Banned
bigturbonyc said:
Actually vw has a clip, its a stupid fucking clip and lists for 50 bux...if you complain about the rattle you get it installed...

you know how many turbos ive done with that clip installed, probably 75% of them. i dont understand some of this shit corporate decides, but its ALWAYS about money.
Click to expand...

So behind the dp the WG flap would be loose?
 
M

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
I've been giving heavy consideration to joining the BT ranks here. My car drives great but I just want some more pull up top. So I've been reading about upgrading my fuel system and I haven't seen it mentioned so I'm asking here. Why do we use a LPFP to feed an HPFP at the rail vs just putting in an HPFP in the tank and putting an FPR at the rail to set fuel pressure? This is how I set up my DSM (the only other heavily modified turbo car I have experience with) clearly we're dealing with technology that's 15 years more progressive than what I had back then but I figure there has to be a reason perhaps it destroys the OEM filter or something?


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V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
mikejsmith1985 said:
I've been giving heavy consideration to joining the BT ranks here. My car drives great but I just want some more pull up top. So I've been reading about upgrading my fuel system and I haven't seen it mentioned so I'm asking here. Why do we use a LPFP to feed an HPFP at the rail vs just putting in an HPFP in the tank and putting an FPR at the rail to set fuel pressure? This is how I set up my DSM (the only other heavily modified turbo car I have experience with) clearly we're dealing with technology that's 15 years more progressive than what I had back then but I figure there has to be a reason perhaps it destroys the OEM filter or something?


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Click to expand...

You haven't searched much, as 1/2 of this entire thread is about fueling.

You are talking about 2 completely different types of fuel systems, port injection vs direct injection.

You actually have two FPR's. One is the fuel filter, which limits the low side pump to 6.6 bar delivered to the HPFP. The HPFP then converts low pressure to high pressure of anywhere between 120 and 180bar. You need high pressure because of the injector location (in the combustion chamber).

Your options at this point are pretty much:
1. Stock Everything, limited to around 370whp.
2. Upgraded injectors, limited to around 400whp on pump gas, or 430ish on race gas. Usually not a whole lot of headroom with just injectors.
3. Upgraded injectors and LPFP. In my research, it seems upgrading the LPFP doesn't provide a huge difference, but most of us have done it anyway.
4. Meth. This is a major key. I had injectors and a pump and DPI meth let me run ridiculous timing advance and as much boost as I felt comfortable with (~30psi) without a hint of timing pull and 5ms injection times (aka not even close to taxing the fuel system), all on 93 octane. I've been running this daily for about a year.
5. 5th injector. APA just made 550whp on just injectors/pump/5th injector. No meth. IMO, if someone didn't want to go meth injection, I'd just leave the primary injectors stock, upgrade the LPFP and run a 5th injector. Seems like to potential is huge.

Or any combination of the above. Someone will probably correct half of that, but I was bored at work and just gave you a brain dump.
 
M

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
*****2.0t said:
You haven't searched much, as 1/2 of this entire thread is about fueling.

You are talking about 2 completely different types of fuel systems, port injection vs direct injection.

You actually have two FPR's. One is the fuel filter, which limits the low side pump to 6.6 bar delivered to the HPFP. The HPFP then converts low pressure to high pressure of anywhere between 120 and 180bar. You need high pressure because of the injector location (in the combustion chamber).

Your options at this point are pretty much:
1. Stock Everything, limited to around 370whp.
2. Upgraded injectors, limited to around 400whp on pump gas, or 430ish on race gas. Usually not a whole lot of headroom with just injectors.
3. Upgraded injectors and LPFP. In my research, it seems upgrading the LPFP doesn't provide a huge difference, but most of us have done it anyway.
4. Meth. This is a major key. I had injectors and a pump and DPI meth let me run ridiculous timing advance and as much boost as I felt comfortable with (~30psi) without a hint of timing pull and 5ms injection times (aka not even close to taxing the fuel system), all on 93 octane. I've been running this daily for about a year.
5. 5th injector. APA just made 550whp on just injectors/pump/5th injector. No meth. IMO, if someone didn't want to go meth injection, I'd just leave the primary injectors stock, upgrade the LPFP and run a 5th injector. Seems like to potential is huge.

Or any combination of the above. Someone will probably correct half of that, but I was bored at work and just gave you a brain dump.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the dump :)

I agree there IS a lot of info about fueling here and its discussed in plenty of other threads across the forums . I never really gave a thought to the difference between PI and DI being the reason for the more complex system, and that is really where I didn't see anything answering my question. But now I do.

thanks again!
 
wndwsdwngti860

wndwsdwngti860

Upsidedown
FriggenT said:
Hey guys, this isn't a BT, but how much of an issue is this pin being loose? Would/could it cause boost loss, especially boost holding? Just looking for some info from turbo gurus.

https://vimeo.com/189577658
Click to expand...



it looks like the nut that should be on the opposite side fell off. find another nut that threads on there. slide the wg arm back in. red loctite on the threads. thread new nut on. done!

a good rule of thumb i follow when setting the wastegate is tighten till snug, mark the nut, then 4 full rotations. lock down the opposite nut with red loctite.
 
wndwsdwngti860

wndwsdwngti860

Upsidedown
example of second nut..

 
F

FriggenT1

Banned
wndwsdwngti860 said:
it looks like the nut that should be on the opposite side fell off. find another nut that threads on there. slide the wg arm back in. red loctite on the threads. thread new nut on. done!

a good rule of thumb i follow when setting the wastegate is tighten till snug, mark the nut, then 4 full rotations. lock down the opposite nut with red loctite.
Click to expand...

I don't understand what you mean? I took the nut off to show the play in the clevis pin, the WG was previously tightened down with no issues
 
jettaglis

jettaglis

Go Kart Champion
It doesn't matter that it is "loose" like someone mentioned earlier, Vw has a wastegate anti rattle clip to go on there.
 
S

s word

Ready to race!
bigturbonyc said:
Actually vw has a clip, its a stupid fucking clip and lists for 50 bux...if you complain about the rattle you get it installed...

you know how many turbos ive done with that clip installed, probably 75% of them. i dont understand some of this shit corporate decides, but its ALWAYS about money.
Click to expand...

:D I didn't realize it was a vw part. Its literally a bent metal segment cost has to be in the single digit pennies for $50. Nice. I also didn't realize that many had the issues tho. :eek:
 
U

U-20T

Go Kart Champion
mikejsmith1985 said:
I've been giving heavy consideration to joining the BT ranks here. My car drives great but I just want some more pull up top. So I've been reading about upgrading my fuel system and I haven't seen it mentioned so I'm asking here. Why do we use a LPFP to feed an HPFP at the rail vs just putting in an HPFP in the tank and putting an FPR at the rail to set fuel pressure? This is how I set up my DSM (the only other heavily modified turbo car I have experience with) clearly we're dealing with technology that's 15 years more progressive than what I had back then but I figure there has to be a reason perhaps it destroys the OEM filter or something?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

OEM filter is you LPFP regulator at 6.6bar. The in tank is the lpfp (6.6bar) and the hpfp is driven of the cam (40bar idle to 140bar+).

Also the lpfp is PWM from the ecu, and varies below 6.6 bar, keeps the fuel cooler and fuel pump cooler as well as the feeds the hpfp on an as need basis (to simplify it). You will most likely se 6.6 bar on the low side at WOT but on an idle around ~4bar and it varies. I have seen mine as low as 2bar on an idle.

edit should have refreshed
 
Last edited:
D

drepai

Go Kart Champion
erball said:
wait, 550whp with just a fifth injector? Because god damn...
Click to expand...

Yessir, 28 lbs with an E98 blend, had a lot more left in it too. Car stopped making more power at one point, turns out an injector seal was completely blown out. Guess I reused them one too many times.
 
M

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
U-20T said:
OEM filter is you LPFP regulator at 6.6bar. The in tank is the lpfp (6.6bar) and the hpfp is driven of the cam (40bar idle to 140bar+).

Also the lpfp is PWM from the ecu, and varies below 6.6 bar, keeps the fuel cooler and fuel pump cooler as well as the feeds the hpfp on an as need basis (to simplify it). You will most likely se 6.6 bar on the low side at WOT but on an idle around ~4bar and it varies. I have seen mine as low as 2bar on an idle.

edit should have refreshed
Click to expand...



Thank you for the additional explanation!


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