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Official Timing Chain Tensioner failure thread

ik1015

beeee patient ^^
1. Sealant: D174003A2 (x1)
2. CRANK BOLT: WHT001760 (X1)
3. CHAIN COVER: 06H109210Q (X1)
4. COVER SCREWS: N91096702 (X15)
5. TENSIONER: 06K109467K (X1)
6. N10552402 (X2) MOUNTING
7. N90596906 (X2) MOUNTING
8. N91029602 (X1) MOUNTING W/ STUD
9. N10701501 (X3) MOUNTING
10.Serpentine Belt: 06J-260-849-D

I just placed order above items. Paid $314 shipped.
 

dazedfive

Passed Driver's Ed
I just did the update on my 2010 gti with 92k and the old tensioner looked perfect. I do feel better every time I start it though.

^for the belt tensioner- I removed the bolt that holds it in and pulled the tensioner out just a bit and spun it out of the way. The bolt holds the tensioner in from the rear-behind the alternator. It's kinda pain to reach.
 

ik1015

beeee patient ^^
I just did the update on my 2010 gti with 92k and the old tensioner looked perfect. I do feel better every time I start it though.

^for the belt tensioner- I removed the bolt that holds it in and pulled the tensioner out just a bit and spun it out of the way. The bolt holds the tensioner in from the rear-behind the alternator. It's kinda pain to reach.
Thanks! Did you replace by yourself only?
 

GTIguy30

Passed Driver's Ed
I posted in another thread, but thought I might add it here as a point of reference for anyone else.

Last year at 85k I had a local shop replace the entire timing chain kit (both tensioners, chain, guides, cover, all of it). They also replaced my old diaphragm DV which was full of oil (???), and I decided to go stage I APR because why not spend all my money, right?.

When they tore it apart, the timing chain was near failure (according to them, they showed me but I couldn't tell), exhaust timing had skipped a tooth (not noticeable to me while driving, and no CEL), and the chain itself had stretched nearly an inch.

So happy that I had this all replaced and that this work was not a bunch of money for nothing. I was worried it might be "internet forum paranoia" but I was sick with it and wanted to stop worrying.

The new timing chain is also a "triple link" design versus the "double link" design on my car. They said this was relatively new.

On a side note, after they did the work, I no longer leak oil, at least so far...

When I bought the car at 21,000 miles in 2013 I was burning about a quart every 2000-2500 miles. It has slowly gotten worse and I was currently at about 1 quart every 1500-2000 miles.

I was using Castrol from 21k to 60k. At 60k I started using Motul 8100 Xcess. No real difference in consumption between the 2 oils.

I am about to do my 2nd oil change since getting that work done and I have yet to notice the oil go any lower on the stick...

Just for my own curiosity, could it have been the DV causing that much oil to "disappear"? Could the timing cover have been leaking that bad, I never noticed a leak there before... Could it have been a combination of the 2?

LOVE the fact that I do not have to carry around quarts of oil in my trunk anymore and I hope this continues.

Getting close to 100k and I hope she makes it to 200k!
 

mlody91

Ready to race!
I posted in another thread, but thought I might add it here as a point of reference for anyone else.

Last year at 85k I had a local shop replace the entire timing chain kit (both tensioners, chain, guides, cover, all of it). They also replaced my old diaphragm DV which was full of oil (???), and I decided to go stage I APR because why not spend all my money, right?.

When they tore it apart, the timing chain was near failure (according to them, they showed me but I couldn't tell), exhaust timing had skipped a tooth (not noticeable to me while driving, and no CEL), and the chain itself had stretched nearly an inch.

So happy that I had this all replaced and that this work was not a bunch of money for nothing. I was worried it might be "internet forum paranoia" but I was sick with it and wanted to stop worrying.

Just for my own curiosity, could it have been the DV causing that much oil to "disappear"? Could the timing cover have been leaking that bad, I never noticed a leak there before... Could it have been a combination of the 2?

Getting close to 100k and I hope she makes it to 200k!

See folks, replacing just the tensioner is only a band-aid on the problem. If you have the cover off - might as well replace the guides and chains too.

As for your question, I believe the ripped diaphragm was more than likely the main culprit for your oil losses. I can imagine the oil going past the ripped diaphragm, sliding down your turbo outlet pipe (the pancake pipe if you still have the original on) and into your intercooler. Besides that, some oil could have leaked through the hose that connects your air intake piping and the PCV. I know I had a lot of oil on the back of the engine because the hose wasn't sitting well with my APR gen 1 air intake. Switched to Unitronic's intake and haven't had an issue since.

Glad you made it to 100k and hopefully I can get my GTI to 200k as well!
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Its starting to get warm out and my car is doing the rattle on start up after its been warmed up and sitting for 20 minutes again. I already had the tensioner done. Might be a stretched chain slapping the guides but it sounds like its coming from the driver side hard to tell.
 

ik1015

beeee patient ^^
Just replace to updated tensioner during weekend. Some bolts were really PITA to remove and install like one of engine mount bracket bolt. Inspected old tesioner looks fine at 83k miles.

One question, when reinstalling crank pulley and applying torque with counterhold tool, pulley must align with timing mark and stay TDC.
 
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icloudfiles

Passed Driver's Ed
Has anyone had the newest revision fail on them? Just curious to know if there is any data proving that the new revision will not fail?
 

GTI_Fast_Guy

Passed Driver's Ed
failed at 46k

Mine failed at 46k miles on a 2012 Gti.. Dealer installed new engine which extended warranty paid for. I urge everyone to check to see what tensioner they have.. My final bill was 7200$ bent valves and damaged pistons so no repairing.. But its nice having a new engine....:thumbup:



 

jasonaltima

Ready to race!
I have a 2012 GTI with 47,000 miles. I called the dealer and they want 1800 to replace the tensioner. It's just plain crazy.

Sent from my SM-S903VL using Tapatalk
 

KITEWAGON

Passed Driver's Ed
I paid $1300 for an indy shop to replace chain, tensioner, and guides.

What did they say about the tensioner and chain that they removed? Good shape or nearing failure. Did you have any symptoms? What mileage?

I have a quote for exactly this service for the same amount. I have 59k on mine and it runs perfectly.
 
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