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The Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread
- Thread starter GTI7871
- Start date
jay745
What Would Glenn Danzig Do
No it doesn't. Just prevents you from spinning/turning over the engine while torquing it and making sure you keep your tdc marking aligned.
torga
Autocross Champion
Then I suppose I don't understand how it's supposed to work, other than giving a counter torque to remove/replace the bolt.
If the pulley can still move freely, I don't know how to be sure that the pulley is in the proper position, relative to the crankshaft, when I replace it. No idea why the tool wouldn't lock the pulley and crank together - that's the most logical.
Edit: It doesn;t even link the damper pulley to the chain pulley?
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jay745
What Would Glenn Danzig Do
There's a TDC marking on the pulley, and on the timing cover that you line up first. Then you hold the pulley in that position with the counter hold tool while you torque the bolt.
torga
Autocross Champion
Never mind, I just realized that the pulley has teeth on the backside. This whole time I thought it was flat and I could not wrap my head around the pulley staying in-line with the crank.
I got it, man. Thanks.
jay745
What Would Glenn Danzig Do
There's one tooth that is different than the others, however you absolutely must make sure you line up the TDC markings on the pulley/timing cover and not just the tooth with the matching tooth on the crank side.
torga
Autocross Champion
I see what you're saying, thank you.
So if I broke the bolt free while the pulley was at TDC, as long as the crank didn't move I can just use the keyed notch in the teeth to line the pulley back up and it'll still be at TDC. Since there is only one notch in the teeth, it can only be lined back up one way. Assuming that the notch in the teeth is always at the same position, relative to the TDC marking on OEM fit pulleys.
Basically, keep track of the key relative to TDC and I'll be fine, is what I'm hearing.
zrickety
The Fixer
You don't need to worry about TDC unless you're removing the chain, even then there are markings to guide you. If you jack up the car just right, the holder tool will rest on the ground and do the work for you. The pulley itself is fool proof, it will only fit one way even if you turn the crank. Put it on by hand, you'll feel the engagement. Then the trick is getting the bolt started. I would recommend some blue loctite unless you are super strong. The torque spec is really high.
torga
Autocross Champion
I was definitely planning on using some of the sweet blue stuff. Thanks for the additional input!
Different question: can anyone tell me the difference between the Low-Line grille and the R-line grille? From my super expert and technical research of looking at many pictures from Google searches, I cannot tell a single difference other than the obvious "R" badge.
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
Look at the front on pictures here:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/golf-r-upper-grille/5k0853651bf041/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-grille-low-line/5k0853651alqwa/
subtle differences, R grille has a bit less rounded bits and horizontal notches line up a bit different.
torga
Autocross Champion
Ok, I'm able to see them now. Thanks for the help! It was difficult to find some good photos at the same angle on Google. All in all, the differences are incredibly minor. Pretty happy with my recent Low-Line acquisition!
NewGuy1
Go Kart Champion
I cant really tell what your referring to but usually the euro spec and US spec rear bumpers are different due to the license plate dimensions they need to meet in said area.
